Replacing Flat Roof Fascia, Soffit And Removing An Asbestos Board

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Recently had a rubber roof put on extension. The company who did it gave me a price to do the following which I thought was excessive. I'm a senior citizen and the cost is unaffordable.

"Remove the asbestos board from the soffit and clear from site. To supply and fit a timber board if necessary, supply and fit a UPVC Freefoam over clad fascia board in white to all 3 edges and a new 3 plank hollow board to the soffits.Fascia board to be cut to fit including all fixtures and fittings."

I'm looking at doing it myself. So any help, advice fixing tips, much appreciated.
Please look at attached photos for clarification.

Extension was built over 30 years ago, width = 4.87m and length = 4.26m. Any particular reason asbestos was used? I understand I can remove asbestos myself, " using UN Certified UK Legislated for Asbestos Waste removal bags " Double bagged, book in with an authorised place to dispose of it, like local recycling centre. How would the asbestos been fitted in place, how can I remove it? The metal grill appears to be screwed in position.

Do I need to remove the asbestos, or I not leave it in place and somehow attach the 3 plank hollow soffit board to it?
What about the metal grill strip, should I not somehow retain this or some substitute arrangement to allow air to get into the roof space?
I see 5m lengthes of cladding 300mm with a lip to cover bottom of timber board are readily available, together with corner fittings and pins. I've not Googled fitting cladding to perimeter of extension, garage roof yet.
Many thanks.
 

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pollys13a, good evening.

1/. Asbestos cement board was uses back in the day, it was cheap and cheerful, simple as that, it was cheaper than timber. And Asbestos does not rot?
2/. Yes you can as you posted remove this "Asbestos Material" check with your Local Authority as to the regulations that they impose as to disposal.
3/. The "metal grill" you mention is in fact for ventilation of the roof void, this ventilation stops condensation build up inside the roof void. Whatever you decide to do, you MUST replicate this "ventilation system" there are several plastic systems that have such ventilation strips incorporated. If you opt to change the "Asbestos Cement Material" with plastic go for a vented soffit version.

As to removal of the Asbestos Cement Material, try not to break it up, do not drill it, if you can take it off as one unit at a time. these panels tended to be nailed on, sometimes [unusually] screwed?

Have a look at the web sites for the plastic material you intend to use, they may have instructional videos on the site, if not??? go to U-Tube but make sure you are watching a UK Based video??

Ken
 
Ok thanks for that Ken, very helpful. My middle name is Duncan, mums maiden name :)

" you MUST replicate this "ventilation system" there are several plastic systems that have such ventilation strips incorporated. "
Could you point me in the right direction, links, so I know what I'm looking for?

" if you can take it off as one unit at a time. these panels tended to be nailed on, sometimes [unusually] screwed?"
Any tips on how I actually go about getting it off, if nailed, screwed down under the roof I see that as being awkward to get out?
The metal grill I think would likely be screwed into a batten running along the fascia
I glanced at an asbestos safety kit on Amazon, zip up overalls and asbestos dust mask.
Would I need to go down this route? I have a 3M half face mask with filters but I expect probably need to a get more suitable pair.
Thank you.


.
 
Ah, duh:) just Googled, vented soffit boards a couple of types came up. Is vented soffit board, a vented soffit or are their variations in design and one might be more suitable for this job, or do vented soffit boards all do the same thing?
 
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In my younger days one of the jobs I had was as a labourer for a small family building firm. One of the jobs I was allocated too, was a week with some roofers, they used a nail ripper tool to loosen the slates off. Is there some type of small nail ripper or perhaps hacksaw blade I could use to cut through nails, screws holding the asbestos in position, or am I running the risk of inadvertently creating asbestos dust?
 
Looking I see could remove the fascia adjacent to the asbestos board. If I remove that I could get access to the top side of the asbestos. I have a WoodStar Diver ( Scheppach) clone ) track saw and Celotex insulation to rest the cut on. I'm thinking I could use the track saw to cut the wedge shaped fascia at the front? I also have a sliding compound mitre saw, so I'm thinking of putting new timbers onto the joists. I can see that the metal ventilation grill in nailed into the joists. If the track saw is suitable I will need to get some additional track guide lengths and track joiners.
Any help, tips appreciated. Or instead of guide tracks, devise some method of clamping a long batten or something to act as a guide rail.
Thanks.
 
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If you can remove the facia, you can simply tap the top of the Asbestos bound cement and loosen off the board???

Dont forget, the actual volume of "ASBESTOS" in his material is very low + the [dreaded] ASBESTOS is generally "white" asbestos, the most benign of this material??

Face mask, yes and go for it.

Ken
 
If you can remove the facia, you can simply tap the top of the Asbestos bound cement and loosen off the board???

Dont forget, the actual volume of "ASBESTOS" in his material is very low + the [dreaded] ASBESTOS is generally "white" asbestos, the most benign of this material??

Face mask, yes and go for it.

Ken
OK, the timber fascia boards are 20mm thick, having a quick look on Ebay I see can get uvpc capped cladding that is 10mm thick but the cap gap I think is 25mm. So the uvpc wouldn't rest flat on the timber board as being held off by the cap. So in this situation, am I missing something? I could pad out the timber, so thickness would match the space on the cladding gap of 25mm?
It will just be me doing this, I have a ladder with a stay, rather than get 5m lengths of cladding and postage charge I see can get 2.5m length, which I think could be more manageable than a 5m. Would it be acceptable to use 2.5m length and have joiner links? I could also get 2.5 lengths
Also I might find a local supplier at a better price than Ebay and if use 2.5m lengths with coupler joining
I took 300mm wide sheet out yesterday If placed in corner I could pivot it down to the ground. This has me thinking if I attach cladding at one corner I can lift it up into position on the other but how can I secure in position, drill a hole through cladding, that would not be visible, as covered with a corner joiner would a nail through into. Would a decent sized nail be strong enough to hold in position?
I support Hillside Animal Sanctuary by doing door to door leafletting, sometimes a small direct donation. I also go through Easyfundraising site, so each time I make a purchase through Amazon or Ebay, Hillside get a donation. In recognition and appreciation of your help on this I will make a £50 donation to Hillside.
Thank you:)
Peter.
 
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pollys13a, good evening.

Can I suggest you have a look at this.
HOW TO: UPVC Fascia & Soffit - Using the Correct Fixings | PVC ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feGozQZ3CbE

There are several other YouTube videos, and depending on what system you opt for?

In general terms, fixings tend to be hidden so called "secret fixings"

At times, the Soffit Asbestos bound cement boards are not removed, only the vent strip which was replaced with a suitably sized compatible alternate.

As for lengths? I would opt for the 2.5.m lengths, easier to manipulate, but if you use a so called "dead man" a length of timber to support the far end of the board you are working on?

Ken.
 
When I disposed of cement asbestos pipes and guttering I had to double bag it in heavy polythene taped up, and make an appointment at my local tip. I needed proof of ID and had to sign that it was all mine, not transporting it for others.
 
Are you sure it's not AIB? The fact it has the broken section would say its the more fragile AIB.
 

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