Replacing oven and hob - DIY job?

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So I'm putting my parents a new kitchen in. They're doing away with their freestanding cooker for a built under double oven, and a gas hob.

The oven they are looking at is a 4.8kw one (with a fuse rating of 32amps) which I know can't be used on a 13amp circuit. There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter, then 6mm running down below the counter into a 45amp cooker connection unit.

Now, the 32amp rating, does that relate to the RCD end as I thought that had to be 20amp, or is it the FCU end? I don't currently know the fuse ratings of either are but will check. What do they need to be? Is the 45amp cooker connection unit underneath suitable?

Also, the gas hob, as far as I'm aware only needs a 13amp connection. It also needs to be hardwired, or at least doesn't come with a plug attached. There is a single 13a plug socket below the counter. What are my options here? Can I put a plug on it? If not, what sort of connection unit do I need?

I'm a pretty competent person in that I'm happy wiring new lights, new sockets etc. But I don't want to take risks with things I don't understand. If I've got all the basics there for this it would be great as money is really tight, but obviously if a pro needs paying they will have to cut back elsewhere.

Thanks very much guys. Apologies if I've missed important information out.
 
The oven, wire into the existing cooker connection unit (where the existing cooker is connected).
If the hob is gas it needs only a very small cuurent for the spark ignition, so plug it into the 13A socket below the counter. There should be a plug with the hob, if not fit a standard plug with a 3amp fuse.

re
There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter
That is not an FCU. FCUs have a maximum fuse size of 13amps
That is a cooker switch. No fuse there!
 
The oven they are looking at is a 4.8kw one (with a fuse rating of 32amps) which I know can't be used on a 13amp circuit. There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD
Do you mean MCB?
running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter,
Do you mean Cooker Switch?

then 6mm running down below the counter into a 45amp cooker connection unit.
OK.

Now, the 32amp rating, does that relate to the RCD end as I thought that had to be 20amp, or is it the FCU end? I don't currently know the fuse ratings of either are but will check. What do they need to be? Is the 45amp cooker connection unit underneath suitable?
No. It means the cable has protection from the 32A MCB which is fine and what 90% (or more) of cooker circuits are.

Also, the gas hob, as far as I'm aware only needs a 13amp connection.
Probably 1A would be more than enough. Use a 3A fuse.
It also needs to be hardwired, or at least doesn't come with a plug attached.
You can use a plug or a Fused Connection Unit.

There is a single 13a plug socket below the counter. What are my options here? Can I put a plug on it? If not, what sort of connection unit do I need?
Yes, put a plug on it or use an FCU if the socket and plug stick out too far.

I'm a pretty competent person in that I'm happy wiring new lights, new sockets etc. But I don't want to take risks with things I don't understand. If I've got all the basics there for this it would be great as money is really tight, but obviously if a pro needs paying they will have to cut back elsewhere.
Connect the Hob as above and the Oven to the Cooker Connection Unit.



For information:
Fuses and Circuit Breakers are there to protect the cable - not the appliances.
 
That is not an FCU. FCUs have a maximum fuse size of 13amps
That is a cooker switch. No fuse there!
It could be an FCU.

We know that here was a freestanding cooker, and we know that there's a gas supply. Not impossible that the FCU was added when a gas cooker ignition supply was needed.
 
It could be an FCU.
Given the trail detailed
There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter, then 6mm running down below the counter into a 45amp cooker connection unit.
I doubt that it is an FCU.
@Fordy81 Picture please! (Ooh look, I've gone all 21st Century and used an @!!)
 
The oven they are looking at is a 4.8kw one (with a fuse rating of 32amps) which I know can't be used on a 13amp circuit. There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD
Do you mean MCB?
running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter,
Do you mean Cooker Switch?

then 6mm running down below the counter into a 45amp cooker connection unit.
OK.

Now, the 32amp rating, does that relate to the RCD end as I thought that had to be 20amp, or is it the FCU end? I don't currently know the fuse ratings of either are but will check. What do they need to be? Is the 45amp cooker connection unit underneath suitable?
No. It means the cable has protection from the 32A MCB which is fine and what 90% (or more) of cooker circuits are.

Also, the gas hob, as far as I'm aware only needs a 13amp connection.
Probably 1A would be more than enough. Use a 3A fuse.
It also needs to be hardwired, or at least doesn't come with a plug attached.
You can use a plug or a Fused Connection Unit.

There is a single 13a plug socket below the counter. What are my options here? Can I put a plug on it? If not, what sort of connection unit do I need?
Yes, put a plug on it or use an FCU if the socket and plug stick out too far.

I'm a pretty competent person in that I'm happy wiring new lights, new sockets etc. But I don't want to take risks with things I don't understand. If I've got all the basics there for this it would be great as money is really tight, but obviously if a pro needs paying they will have to cut back elsewhere.
Connect the Hob as above and the Oven to the Cooker Connection Unit.



For information:
Fuses and Circuit Breakers are there to protect the cable - not the appliances.

I do mean MCB. I never get that right. lol

And yes it is a cooker switch, sorry.

Excellent, thank you.

So I'd put a 3amp fuse in a FCU, or stick with the 13amp? Think a plug might take up too much room as it's all a bit tight.

Thanks for your help. Sorry each line isn't responding to each of your comments. Not sure how to do that.
 
It could be an FCU.
Given the trail detailed
There is currently a dedicated cooker circuit from the RCD running 6mm T&E connecting to a FCU above the counter, then 6mm running down below the counter into a 45amp cooker connection unit.
I doubt that it is an FCU.
@Fordy81 Picture please! (Ooh look, I've gone all 21st Century and used an @!!)

Apologies, it definitely is just a cooker switch. Then the 6mm runs down to a 45a cooker connection unit
 
The oven they are looking at is a 4.8kw one (with a fuse rating of 32amps) which I know can't be used on a 13amp circuit.
Actually, if that 4.8kW is at 240V it can go on a 13A circuit.

((4800/240)-10)*.3 + 10 = ___ ?

Ahh ok. Last time I take the dealers word for it. It's still ok to hardwire to the cooker connection unit though?
 

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