replacing Paramount partition

[ajrobb]

I have just discovered that my 1978 Wimpey house has Paramount partition walls (cardboard webs sandwiched between plasterboard and thin studs only at the joins). I am going to remove the hot tank and enlarge the bathroom into the airing cupboard (as the basin currently overhangs the bath).

I have also found that the bathroom does not have mains water! Removing the Paramount partitions would give me access to the service duct, which has mains water running up to the cold tank (also to be removed). The bath has a leak and needs to come out anyway to replace 22mm low pressure pipes from the tanks with 15mm high pressure pipes from a new combi boiler. I also want to remove tiles from a Paramount partition. It doesn't sound like the partitions are going to survive!

The wall I want to extend has stairs on the other side. Currently the Paramount partition goes down to floor level and I think there is regular plasterboard between the floor and ceiling below. Should I be able to use a single drop of plasterboard between the 2 ceilings? How can I support it while fixing?

In order to improve noise insulation, I want to use resilient 43mm Gypframe Acoustuds with 2 layers of Soundbloc on each side. I'll also put acoustic mineral wool in the partition. I plan on following British Gypsum white book methods. Apart from extra thickness, is there anything I should take into consideration?

How should I seal the internal tile joint in the shower between a resilient partition and an external wall?

 

[noseall]

Currently the Paramount partition goes down to floor level and I think there is regular plasterboard between the floor and ceiling below. Should I be able to use a single drop of plasterboard between the 2 ceilings?

It depends upon the length in question. There are plasterboards available greater than 2.4m but not all builders yards stock them. If you were to do it in two pieces be sure that you do not join the board in a vulnerable position i.e. at the floor/wall abutment. You would be better off allowing a 2.4m board to sit flush with the ceiling below and have a join closer to the upstairs ceiling.

How can I support it while fixing?

Get a mate to hold it.

How should I seal the internal tile joint in the shower between a resilient partition and an external wall?

Silicone sealant.

 

[ajrobb]

Due to worries about scope, I have decided to leave the stairwell alone and just replace the partition between the bathroom and main bedroom. I want to use staggered studs and 2 layers of 12.5mm Soundbloc on both sides (MR for bathroom). I need a new door frame to match the new partition thickness.

I also need a new partition and door between the bathroom and landing. Given the amount of Paramount partition already between the bathroom and the stairwell, I can't see the point in making this soundproof.

Apologies to all plasterers, I intend to use face board and no skim.

1. What stud sizes can I use?

2. Should I use Gypframe staggered stud system or similar?

 

[Deluks]

1) 3x2 staggered on a 4x2 plate, 400mm centres.
2) See answer above!

Order CLS (will be smaller than dimensions given above due to finishing but will be suitable)

If you will be running a strip down the middle as mentioned in your other post, you could just use a strip of plywood fixed flat to the studs, the same thickness as your first layer of plasterboard, then cut the plasterboard to fit above/below this strip. That way no need to rebate the studs for your 'floorboard'.

 

[ajrobb]

If I use 100mm studs at floor and ceiling plus a total of 4 layers of 12.5mm plasterboard, I'll need a 150mm door frame. I'd rather buy one. (Jewsons have 125mm.) Anyone suggest a supplier in Sussex?

 

[Deluks]

Tbh your outer layers of plasterboard could be 9.5mm. Get some 6x1 planed timber and make your own door lining. Add some architrave and your sorted.

 

[ajrobb]

I'm glad I pulled down the Paramount partition now (I think ). It has revealed rotten floorboards under the partition near the shower and possibly the floor joist. I was in two minds about replacing the ceiling downstairs, many of the 6mm head nails are coming loose. If the 6.5" joist needs patching then I suspect it will be easier with the ceiling down. Chance then to fit some resilient bars, acoustic mineral wool and a couple of layers of Soundbloc.

Untitled

• ajrobb
• 16 Apr 2010
• 1

- now gone

 

[ajrobb]

1) 3x2 staggered on a 4x2 plate, 400mm centres.

Wickes have just 2 sizes of stud, 89mm and 63mm. I might as well use those. That will give me 140mm wall thickness. With 400mm centres, I won't need noggins .

Wickes also have 144x18 PSE that I might use for the door frame. I assume I cut the tongues in the jambs and the grooves in the lintel so I can control the height.

The original gap under the doors was about 12mm. I might raise this to 20mm to allow for acoustic underlay and flooring in the bedroom and for plywood and ceramic tiles in the bathroom.

 

[Deluks]

You're on the right track.
That timber you linked to is CLS. Some would say avoid wickes timber, but if you go down and select it yourself you'll miss any obvious dodgy bits. My local wickes isn't too bad, but price wise it's cheaper to go to any builders merchants that isn't Travis P or Jewson.