rip out warm air heating

[johnlewis]

we have an old warm air system that costs a fortune to run and does not heat the house properly.

i have decided to probly go for a combi system and get everything ripped out.

issue i have is the ground floor is concrete and i dont really want expossed pipe work ,could the pipes run though the ceiling void then come back down the wall and be chassed in ?

also what would a full install cost for a four bed detached of around 2250 ft including ripping out the old system

 

[bengasman]

Pipes can go virtually anywhere you want; if it is a good idea technically is another question.
price: how long is a piece of string, you might as well ask: how much will a new car cost me and the same factors apply.

 

[gas4you]

A very approx price for a standard system with exposed pipes would be £4000 + VAT.

Can't be any more accurate without seeing the property.

Where you want the pipes run/hidden could add a lot more to the job.

 

[johnlewis]

A very approx price for a standard system with exposed pipes would be £4000 + VAT.

Can't be any more accurate without seeing the property.

Where you want the pipes run/hidden could add a lot more to the job.

what would be a standard system ?
i was looking along the lines of about 17 rads and a worcester bosch 42cdi or valiant ecoTEC plus 937

 

[gas4you]

For that size system you can double that to about £8-£10,000 plus VAT

 

[namsag]

Was going to say dave 4k did you miss the area of the house.

 

[gas4you]

Was going to say dave 4k did you miss the area of the house.

Yes I did

 

[johnlewis]

For that size system you can double that to about £8-£10,000 plus VAT

10K was hoping for about the 6k mark

 

[gas4you]

The last large system I done was an Ecotec Plus 637, 250 litre unistor and 24 rads with 3 heating zones plus HW, totalled approx £15000

You may find cheaper, but I offer a full and valid 3-5 year warranty, where I DO answer the phone and attend same/next day for any faults or even if you forget how to use it

 

[johnlewis]

The last large system I done was an Ecotec Plus 637, 250 litre unistor and 24 rads with 3 heating zones plus HW, totalled approx £15000

You may find cheaper, but I offer a full and valid 3-5 year warranty, where I DO answer the phone and attend same/next day for any faults or even if you forget how to use it

i am sure you do , but i think 6k is achiveable considering the kit is only about 3k max

 

[bengasman]

I think you are underestimating things a bit.
3k for kit is more likely to be a minimum based on a combi.

Chasing pipes in walls is a lot of work and can be rather tricky; I am presuming now that you do not have an accurate drawing of where the wires are in the walls.
getting a big gaspipe to the boiler will also be interesting.
Unless you are looking at a combi, a decent cylinder alone is about 1500 notes supply and fit, if not more.

 

[johnlewis]

I think you are underestimating things a bit.
3k for kit is more likely to be a minimum based on a combi.

Chasing pipes in walls is a lot of work and can be rather tricky; I am presuming now that you do not have an accurate drawing of where the wires are in the walls.
getting a big gaspipe to the boiler will also be interesting.
Unless you are looking at a combi, a decent cylinder alone is about 1500 notes supply and fit, if not more.

yep was looking to go for a combi so i can lose the airing cupboard , and the cupboard the warm air unit is in, in the kitchen.

The down stairs is not as bad as it sounds as the boiler could go in the garage , which directly backs on to the kitchen , utility room ,study and toilet. so the pipes could just go stright through the wall.

That leaves lounge hall and dining room, to worry about

 

[simond]

I think you can assume under £10K.

Anything else is conjecture until a heating professional surveys the job.

 

[bengasman]

The problem is that nobody can say anything sensible until all aspects are assessed, and a design is made.

Contrary to common believe, good installers do not go around spending anywhere from half a day to a whole day to do this in a thorough way, free and for nothing.

Looking at the size of the job (and the bill), I suggest you find a good installer, within reasonable distance of your house and pay him for an assessment and design.
This allows the installer to do a proper job without having to risk loosing a day's work if he does not get the job. If he gets the job, the design fee should be deducted from the final bill.

It will allow you to get second/third or however many opinions as you want about the design, and you can decide if you like the work he proposes.
It also assures that you do not get the old: “sorry guv, we found an unexpected problem which was not included in the spec. I will have to ask you for another 600.”
You have read anything from 4000 to 15000 so far; spending a few bob to know exactly what you need, and what it will costs, could save you a lot of hassle and aggravation.

 

[BigBurner]

Johnson & Starley have some superb replacement forced air units
with advantages:

• Electrostatic air filters -recommended for asthmatics.
• Modulating burners
• Modulating fans
• Very quiet.
• They also cool by moving air in summer.
• No rads.
• Even temperature around rooms
• Rapid room temperature heat up
• Room Temperatures can be set to a few degrees lower
• No water leaks
• No sludging up of radiators and boilers
• Outside air ventilation can be added
• Heat recovery from extracted air can be added.
• Heat recovery from air extractors can be incorporated.
• Humidification can be added without much hassle.

Try all that with rads.

The modern forced air units by J&S are a world away from the older units
too. They will transform a system. The reason forced air is not installed is more due to ignorance and lack of skills.

Some forced air units have wet copper coil heater batteries heated by a boiler. Many use high flow combis, so DHW is taken care of. That means the boiler heats via air ducts rather than radiators. The system can be slit, forced air and rads.