Safe to wire washer and dryer like this?

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Hi. We just removed a broken washing machine and saw it and a dryer had been wired together to the same wall box. The appliance wires had been merged and wired in as if one appliance. Is it safe to repeat this with a new washer?

 
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That looks like a switched isolator with no fuse, do you know what MCB or fuse is currently protecting it? Personally do you think there is a potential for it to be overloaded if both appliances were on at the same time?
 
We've had both running together for years and had no issues.
 

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It's fed from an FCU then looking at your second photo. As long as they don't pull over 13Amps together at the same time. They may even pull more for short periods, I guess there 's no sign of overheating. What power ratings are/were your washing machine & dryer? Ideally it would be better if they'd be able to be switched off individually.
 
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It's not ideal, mainly for maintenance and fault issues (one fails and pulls the fuse, the other is out of action as well) as well as it being a pain getting 2 flexes through one lot of strain relief.
 
Hi. We just removed a broken washing machine and saw it and a dryer had been wired together to the same wall box. The appliance wires had been merged and wired in as if one appliance. Is it safe to repeat this with a new washer?

A cheap, simple way to improve it, assuming everything else permits it - would be to swap the outlet to one of those twin sockets they sell, to enable a single socket to be replaced with a twin socket. They partially surface/suck, so don't stick out a lot more.
 
it is poor practice to plug both a washer and a drier into a double socket.

you could use two singles in a dual box, or run a spur to put an additional socket in.
 
Why not just swap it and the back box for a double?
 
Why not just swap it and the back box for a double?

Which is no better than just replacing with the single to double socket I suggested - both methods are limited to 20amps. We are struggling for feedback from the op., it was asked what rating the MCB was and the current rating of each appliance.
 
I can't see any sign of a fuse carrier. What can you see?
See 1st pick it Says on the back its a 20a switch

Actually as chivers says you can see the outline of the fuse carrier if you blowup the 2nd pic
 
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Which is no better than just replacing with the single to double socket I suggested - both methods are limited to 20amps. We are struggling for feedback from the op., it was asked what rating the MCB was and the current rating of each appliance.
But better than a lash up by joining wires together.
 

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