semi armoured

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What its right name the stuff with a clear plastic outer with a woven steel armour. went to order some today to replace Kopex trunk, guy had no idea what I was on about must be a new guy the rest were at a trade show bloody skivers
Dev Maguire
 
Yeah I know especially if you have to terminate the armour fortunately I dont have to this time it's going on two deep fryers and a proving oven all nicely earthed and bonded
DM
 
I would not use it for friers - the sheath is only PVC. PVC and heat/oily grease is not good.

Use some HR7RN-F flex. This is designed for the job.
 
Yeah I know especially if you have to terminate the armour fortunately I dont have to this time it's going on two deep fryers and a proving oven all nicely earthed and bonded
DM

If you don't intend terminating the shield, why do you wish to use SY ?

I would suggest HO5 or HO7 flex would be more appropriate [depending on temperature] as they are more resistant to heat and oil.

perhaps I should learn to read more of the thread before I post!
 
terminating the screen ( lets not call it armoured, it's not.. you can cut through it with a knife.. ) is really easy.

strip back the outer, push the braid to get some slack, bend at the outer sheath, using a screwdriver pick a hole in the braid and pull the inner core out of it, pull the braid tight again and now it's empty it will collapse on itself.
sleeve it and either heatshrink over the outer/braid junction, or use tape to tidy it up.
 
terminating the screen ( lets not call it armoured, it's not.. you can cut through it with a knife.. ) is really easy.

strip back the outer, push the braid to get some slack, bend at the outer sheath, using a screwdriver pick a hole in the braid and pull the inner core out of it, pull the braid tight again and now it's empty it will collapse on itself.
sleeve it and either heatshrink over the outer/braid junction, or use tape to tidy it up.

Or buy the dedicated glands, its even easier
 
yes, but my way you get a "tail" you can terminate properly and don't have to fiddle about cutting the braid back.
 
yes, but my way you get a "tail" you can terminate properly and don't have to fiddle about cutting the braid back.

Oh yes, I regularly do it your way particularly if its going into a plug. However I do find that the shield can be quite springy and can be APITA to compress into a 'dense' wire when still in the tubular form, especially on the larger sizes. But if its going into a gland I find it easier to use the dedicated ones and as you pointed out its very easy to cut the shielding.

I hate to see tape wrapped around the junction, it may look ok when done but a short while later when its shrinking, unwinding itself or just going sticky and manky.... I usually use Hellerman sleeves or at least heatshrink.

Edit just found this in one of the threads below and highlighted a bit, only for interest and not to labour a point, I'm sure it really doesn't make much difference, if any.

MF2.5SLASH3.JPG


Reading the blurb mentions:-

"Triple protection which enables the cable to resist even the most hostile
of environments. exceptional flexibility.
Used extensively in construction, food processing, heating and air conditioning installations"

"The MF CX Cable Gland is designed for use with Steel Wire or Copper Wire Braid Armour.
Manufactured from brass and encapsulated with a non-corrosive polyester outer body,
offering complete protection in the most hostile of environments.

For EMC environments braid placement is critical,
for optimum performance the braids are terminated 360 degree around the periphery of the cable entry as opposed to using a pigtail technique.
This broad footprint of braids against gland wall yields low transfer resistance and high EMC protection.


Seals on both the inner and outer cable sheath, to IP68 if fitted with a sealing gasket".

I'm not sure :oops:

The cable doesn't look super rodent, puncture, mechanical damage or UV proof.

I'm sure someone else will qualify..........
 

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