SEPARATE COOKER AND HOB (ELECTRIC)

[setarip]

Need help please. I am putting in a built in electic oven and hob which replaces an old free standing unit.
This old unit was connected via a connector in the wall which is hard wired into the cooker control and socket outlet.
The new oven has a fitted plug which I assume I can plug into the same socket. Would it be o/k to wire the hob into the connector that supplied the old oven? New hob is 6200 watt ,oven is 2250/2400. dont know what power the old unit was, it's gone to the great recycle place in the sky.

 

[Taylortwocities]

First things first.

What is the characteristic of the old cooker supply.
How large is the cable (csa)?
What value is the fuse/cb in the fuseboard?
Do the manufacturer(s) of the hob&oven state what fuse should protect each device.??

 

[ColJack]

you want to change the connector on the wall with..

View media item 10929 View media item 10930this...
( second outing today, must be a sale on somewhere )

total usage is in the region of 37A.. which depending in the installation route and method would require 6 or 10mm cable ( 10 is best.. ) and a 40A breaker / fuse.

 

[setarip]

Hey ColJack, where can I get one of those , please?Screwfix dont have them.

 

[Steve]

Hey ColJack, where can I get one of those , please?Screwfix dont have them.

Shopping list to make one:

1 x Unswitched socket outlet
1 x cooker outlet plate
1 x dual backbox (metal or plastic or drywall)

Screwfix have them So do B&Q.

 

[ColJack]

I keep forgetting that not everyone on here is a sparky...

dual backbox ( metal, for sinking into walls )
dual backbox ( dry lining for studwork walls )
they do make surface mount ones too, but screwfix doesn't seem to do them.. try B&Q
unswitched socket
cooker outlet plate

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

HI Setarip,

You should really consider the questions by taylortwocities before installing anything.

 

[setarip]

Yeah, well if he was to post in language that normal people could understand ,I think that I would be able to do that! We are NOT all electrical engineers you know.Just try educating us NORMAL people and do not speak in acronyms.

 

[ColJack]

to be honest, if you can't understand and answer the questions as he's asked them then you shouldn't be messing with electrics.. they are basic questions..

how many amps does the fuse say it is?
how big is the old cable?
what size fuse do the instructions say to use?

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Hi Setarip,

I agree with Col.

Anyone attempting electrical work should either be competent or be under instruction from some one who is competent.

No body else should be messing with those lethal electron thingys.

The questions asked by Taylor were simple basic questions which should have easily been understood.

The acronyms you refer to are in common use and are understood by all electricians. There are not the preserve of high brow engineers!

Might i humbly suggest you get an electrician before some gets injured

Also, how do you intend to deal with the required notification of this job?? as you are probably going to alter the cable route and the characteristics of the circuit, BCO need to be told!

 

[ColJack]

we got free car park lights for 7 years at one place I worked..
they had dug up the pavement to fix a break in the streetlighting and must have gone through the supply to the weighbridge ( that happens to be on the carpark )..
they connected all 4 wires back together.. ( though the weighbridge supply was 3 phase..? )

we needed to install some more lights one day so thought we'd put them on the other 2 phases..

tried to locate the fuses because the 2 other phses were dead..

turning off isolators in the sub we couldn't find one that shut off the one phase at all..
traced it back with a cable tracer from the weighbridge and the signal went off down the road to the nearest lampost..