setting fence posts - is this correct?

[mk2phil]

I've searched this forum for the answer, and whilst there are lots of posts (no pun intended) none of them seem to clarify what I need to know.

I need to put up a fence and want to cencrete the posts (wooden) in. Is this the correct procedure:

1. dig hole with post hole borer (like this one) just bigger than the size of the post - I'm using 95mm x 95mm therefore what size should I make the hole... ?mm x ?mm
2. fill bottom 15cm of hole with pea shingle/gravel to provide suitable drainage
3. drop post into hole
4. throw loads of hardcore around the bottom of the post (as in the next layer of stuff above the pea shingle) to 'wedge' it against the walls of the hole for support (will this save me having to batten the post whilst I set it?)
5. Pour in postcrete mix

Also, is it advisable to use fence post clips or screw the panels directly to the posts? Would rather not use the clips unless I have to as they're unsightly, would prefer if I could use screws that you wont see.

Thanks in advance

 

[fencer]

The post hole borer (scissors) will be fine to dig the hole so long as it's not to hard/stoney, use one of these (A is the one) http://www.drivall.com/fencingtools/fencingspades.htm
to loosen the dirt then use the scissors to clear the hole.

Dig the hole a couple of inches bigger than the post (3 inch post 4 - 5 inch hole).
Dont bother with the gravel under the post (if its gonna rot it will be at ground level) or rubble around the base of the post (unless you've dug the hole to big), just fill the hole with the wet concrete and use a stick (broom handle) to force concrete down and around the post, the top few inches of the hole fill in with some of the spoil you dug out.
If the hole is small the post wont fall either way too far and you wont have to use battens to hold it upright. After a few mins put the bubble (level) on the post get post upright then use your heel to firm dirt/concrete around the post.
Nail the panels to the posts with your common or garden 3 inch nails.

Todays top fencing tip is.....invert the nail first and with the nail head on a path or brick, strike the point of the nail with a hammer, doing this will stop the panel batten splitting in this dry weather when fixing the panel to the post.

 

[Kevstir]

Just done this myself last month , i found rugby post mix from b&q to be superb , dont buy the stuff in the black and orange paper bags as its total crap , with the rugby stuff you dont realy need to support the post as its full of harcore so keeps it nice and firm

 

[mk2phil]

thanks guys,

Would I be ok to screw the panels to the posts using decking screws or alike that wont rust as I may need to take the panels out every now and then to apply preserver to them.

 

[Kevstir]

iv got mines screwed to the posts with 60mm stainless steel turbo decking screws from screwfix, they hold the panels fine but are a little short so gong to replace them with 80mm ones.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=04500&id=50896

if the fence is open to a lot of wind going over it i would think screws would be the best option, thats why i went that route ..

Fencer you say top the rest of the hole with soil you have dug up why would you do this as its just going to hold mosture and rot the posts faster, what iv down is get some cement and top the hole of with that and shaped it so any water that runs down the post will slope away from the post..

Kev

 

[JohnD]

It is not usual to take panels out to restain them. The water-based waxy fence stains are very runny and will get into most gaps that rain can get into, and it doesn't erode from unexposed surfaces.

I like to stain my posts and panels before fitting, that way you can do the top and underneath surfaces easily.

The panels are quite thin and don't rot much except where they are damp e.g. from ground contact or overgrown. Any rails or posts within 6" of the ground will rot unless you use something like Cuprinol Green.

 

[mk2phil]

I may also need to replace panels in the future and if so would rather unscrew the old panel rather than pulling nails out. Just seems like a better option to me...plus they wouldn't split the wood as I'd pre-drill/pilot hole them first

 

[JohnD]

If you're thinking of taking them out in future, the metal clips are very handy. You dont need to screw the panel to all of them, just a couple to stop the panel sliding out of the others.

 

[WabbitPoo]

fencer, do you nail through both sides of the fence ie a nail thru both upright strips of wood?

 

[mk2phil]

had thought of that John, but as the fence is mainly for decoratove purposes and will be painted dark brown, those will stand out like a sore thumb. Bought one the other day to see if I could stain it in any way but I couldn't.

So, screws seem like the last real option, unless anyone can suggest a valid reason not use them? I'll be able to hide them, remove when necessary and they'll be more secure than nails. Thats my reckoning anyway...

 

[JohnD]

... Bought one the other day to see if I could stain it in any way but I couldn't....

I painted mine successfully with the dark brown masonry paint to match the woodwork

 

[fencer]

Wabbitpoo,
Yes I do nail both sides of the panel (not always easy if neighbours from hell live next door) on one side nail top & bottom on the other side one nail in the middle (why I don't know it's how I was taught when I first started out in the fencing world).

Kevstir,
Your idea is a good one, unfortunately majority of customers dont want to see concrete or cement around a post in their flower beds, so it's a habbit I've got into I suppose.

 

[mk2phil]

I painted mine successfully with the dark brown masonry paint to match the woodwork

John - did you use the galvaized brackets?

 

[JohnD]

Yes. They had gone dull so were not new and bright. The paint stuck OK without needing any special primer or undercoat.

 

[Deluks]

Could always make some blocks out of scrap hardwood to hold the fence in place from both sides, They wouldn't need to be huge and would blend in with the fence if stained/painted same colour. They'd come out easily enough if screwed in and cheap to replace if they get damaged.