Hi everyone I'm soon gonna start ripping out my bathroom and intend to move the bath down to the opposite wall which is a stud wall, this wall is on the landing side of the bathroom. I want to fit a shower bar using a concealed fixing bracket, will I need to insulate the stud to cut down noise from the pipes when the shower is running?
Shower on stud wall
- Thread starter J600arv
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Will these be electrical pipes, i.e. pipes with electricity flowing in them?
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,736
- Reaction score
- 2,633
- Country
I did exactly the same. I put a mixer shower into a stud wall adjoining the landing.
I did insulate the void and I don't notice any issues when the shower is running.
I did insulate the void and I don't notice any issues when the shower is running.
Sponsored Links
You can insulate walls to reduce noise, you can also lag the pipework.
But another consideration is allowances for the pipework to expand and contract when heating and cooling down and clipping distances of pipework to avoid water hammer.
If it's wet area the use of moisture boards would be recommended or belt/braces cement boards. These can both be directly tiled onto without the need of plastering, but seal up the butted joints of the boards.
But another consideration is allowances for the pipework to expand and contract when heating and cooling down and clipping distances of pipework to avoid water hammer.
If it's wet area the use of moisture boards would be recommended or belt/braces cement boards. These can both be directly tiled onto without the need of plastering, but seal up the butted joints of the boards.
If it's an open sided stud wall, I would board one side first, then insulate, this will give some support for insulation when installing.
While you're doing the installation, put a temperature sensor on the hot feed to the shower, as this can be used to switch a fan on if you'd rather not have it come on with the lights, or have the user to remember, or have the cost of a humidistat one. It also means you can use a basic non-timed one, as the water in the pipe will stay hot for a while after you turn the shower off.
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,736
- Reaction score
- 2,633
- Country
But then the fan will only come on if the shower is in use.
What if the toilet (
) or bath are in use?
Better to have a PIR.
Then it will trigger in all situations and cannot be forgotten.
And if you don't want it to trigger, you can turn off the TP switch.
What if the toilet (
) or bath are in use? Better to have a PIR.
Then it will trigger in all situations and cannot be forgotten.
And if you don't want it to trigger, you can turn off the TP switch.
Don't know that the room contains a WC. Or if it does how essential a fan is.But then the fan will only come on if the shower is in use.
What if the toilet (
Bath? - have the temperature sensor before the pipe branches, unless the shower control is a 2 or 3-way diverter in which case it will come on anyway.
Including all sorts of situations where you don't need the fan to come on.
And then you can forget to turn it back on
Sorry about late reply chap I've been on nights. The fan I've got has as built in humidistat, I've a plumber coming today it give a qoute for moving thingd about ,so it will be in his hands when the floor comes up if the the price is right. Thanks for your help
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
