Shower / Plasterboard

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I have read on this forum that it is best to use special plaster board around showers and baths under tiles.

My problem is the wall at the side of my shower/bath is a prefabricated partition (9mmPB 50mm Cardboard Honeycomb 9mmPB type) with 50x50 studs at 1200crs. So i cant replace 1 side with special plaster board and the studs are too far apart to add another layer using screws.

Is there an adhesive that would be strong enough to carry the weight of another board and tiles (is the prefab partition strong enough) and what sort of board.

If i tile directly to the existing bog standard board am i very lighly to have problems in the future, its just the plaster board below the old tiles where the shower was for 8 years was still fine.

I would prefer a little more expense now than a lot of hassle in the future.
 
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Your wall is made of "paramount partitioning" and as you say not easily replaced. Provided you do not have excessively heavy tiles then apply a tanking system such as BAL WP1 and tile onto that.

gcol The walls are a sandwich of plasterboard with a cardboard eggcrate core, much like a cheap flush door. The core is knocked out round the edges and the panels slid onto 50x50 par sole and head plates with a stud pushed in at each board joint.

Jason
 
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Gcol
Thankyou for explaining tanking to me in my other thread. i have taken your and Jasonb's advice and read many threads and the solution seems to be tanking. I have watched the video on the manufacturers website however as usual i have a few questions.
1) on the vid the guy tanks to 1 meter above the shower tray. why?
2) he uses the strip material to join the shower tray to the wall. Can i do this on a shower / bath with a 10mm radius on the edge.
3) i have read the threads explaining to tie the bath to the wall with a battern to prevent movement. The wall is paramount partitoning boll&cks. I could support the battern to the floor, which is more or less above a sleeper wall. Will the slightest movement compromise the tanking strip?
4) Do i still need my proposed bath seal strip (the one that goes under the tiles before tiling (presumably never to be replaced ever?). In your experience what is the best permanent solution for the tile to bath interface? And the best tiling detail for this bit?
5) The adjoining partition is not yet built. Do i need to fill and tape the corner as normal or will the tanking strip be enough?
 
Gcol
Thankyou for explaining tanking to me in my other thread. i have taken your and Jasonb's advice and read many threads and the solution seems to be tanking. I have watched the video on the manufacturers website however as usual i have a few questions.
1) on the vid the guy tanks to 1 meter above the shower tray. why?
Because that's where the majority of the water will be hitting. Personally I'd go to shoulder height.

2) he uses the strip material to join the shower tray to the wall. Can i do this on a shower / bath with a 10mm radius on the edge.
I'd be inclined to stick the bath to the wall using a grab adhesive (I use Geocel quickgrip). Try and leave the bead of grab adhesive so that it fills the void left by the radius of the bath (but ensure it's not proud). Then use the strip in the tanking kit and just have a small amount on the bath edge.
You could even sink the bath into the wall a little to reduce the effect of this radius.

3) i have read the threads explaining to tie the bath to the wall with a battern to prevent movement. The wall is paramount partitoning boll&cks. I could support the battern to the floor, which is more or less above a sleeper wall. Will the slightest movement compromise the tanking strip?
The product will flex a little (as will the silicone seal) but you need to make sure your bath is as rigid as possible.

4) Do i still need my proposed bath seal strip (the one that goes under the tiles before tiling (presumably never to be replaced ever?). In your experience what is the best permanent solution for the tile to bath interface? And the best tiling detail for this bit?
Don't use those sealing strips - they don't work and look cheap and nasty. Just a well applied bead of silicone will do fine and look much more professional.

5) The adjoining partition is not yet built. Do i need to fill and tape the corner as normal or will the tanking strip be enough?
Just use the tanking strip.
 

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