J
Johnmelad502
Why do you ask?
Simple job - why so expensive?
- Thread starter Felto
- Start date
Why do you ask?
Because, although there are clearly CPC's present, i'd like to know whether they are actually connected to something, especially if I were doing it for someone else, paid or not.
Perhaps im overcautious, but thats just me.
J
Johnmelad502
Yep CPCs are there, so why not test them?
Where did I say not to test them?
The reason I was asking about metal faced accessories was because if the OP was intending to DIY job, and the replacement sockets are plastic, i'd suggest that a L --> E test with a multimeter or AVI would give an indication of earth connection.
If metal fronted I'd prefer a loop impedance test.
It is fairly simple yes. But if you have no confidence in DIYing it then ask around friends or family for a handyman to come and have a look. As others have stated the reason sparks have said it will cost £££ is because they don't really want to do such a small job. It's just not worth it for them - that is unless you take them up on their £300 quote!How easy is it to fit a new plug socket and stuff? It looks very simple, but i probably shouldn't attempt it myself
What you need to do remove the fuses/switch off the MCB for the relevant circuits. You would remove the old fitting and replace with the new one. Ideally a multimeter would be handy to check that everything is isolated as it should be but if you wanted you could switch off the main switch isolating the whole house to make sure. Assuming you're not fighting with conductors trying to re-terminate them, I should think it wouldn't really take very long at all to replace these fittings.
Thanks for the post Bongos
I'd be confident in fitting them after reading a guide and marking where the wires go, but the testing you guys are talking about I have no idea on so I should probably leave it to the pros unless the tests are fairly simple to do or non mandatory.
Quite understandable about the electrician fee but I don't think I can justify paying that price for them to stick a couple of wires in a new fitting (I won't be saying this when I F it up on a DIY job
) I'll ring around a few more places to see if I can get a cheaper price and ask a couple of friends to, if not then i'll most likely be on the front line of electrocution when I attempt it myself 
Yes they're metal plated
Will do
I'd be confident in fitting them after reading a guide and marking where the wires go, but the testing you guys are talking about I have no idea on so I should probably leave it to the pros unless the tests are fairly simple to do or non mandatory.
Quite understandable about the electrician fee but I don't think I can justify paying that price for them to stick a couple of wires in a new fitting (I won't be saying this when I F it up on a DIY job
) I'll ring around a few more places to see if I can get a cheaper price and ask a couple of friends to, if not then i'll most likely be on the front line of electrocution when I attempt it myself Yes they're metal plated
Will do
J
Johnmelad502
The testing is not compulsory, but is advisable. That said, 99.999999999% of DIYs would not have the test equipment.
With metal plated i would always go for the tests. As a minimum CPC continuity. Otherwise you get a loose live and your plates are live with nowhere to go but through whoever touches them,
The danger is similar with plastic accessories, metal backboxes and metal plate screws.
When we first moved into our house, one of the first things our lass wanted me to do was to put up a shiny new light fitting that she had bought from ikea (bless)
CPC's all present and correct at ceiling rose, connected at CU but low and behold terrible Z's reading.
When I finally traced it I found that the "rewire" had not extended to replacing the piece of lead sheathed cable that fed the upstairs lights. The lead cable had been put into a plastic JB and to try and maintain the earth continuity they had wrapped the lighting CPC around the lead sheath and taped it on.
CPC's all present and correct at ceiling rose, connected at CU but low and behold terrible Z's reading.
When I finally traced it I found that the "rewire" had not extended to replacing the piece of lead sheathed cable that fed the upstairs lights. The lead cable had been put into a plastic JB and to try and maintain the earth continuity they had wrapped the lighting CPC around the lead sheath and taped it on.
It is fairly simple yes. But if you have no confidence in DIYing it then ask around friends or family for a handyman to come and have a look. As others have stated the reason sparks have said it will cost £££ is because they don't really want to do such a small job. It's just not worth it for them - that is unless you take them up on their £300 quote!How easy is it to fit a new plug socket and stuff? It looks very simple, but i probably shouldn't attempt it myself
What you need to do remove the fuses/switch off the MCB for the relevant circuits. You would remove the old fitting and replace with the new one. Ideally a multimeter would be handy to check that everything is isolated as it should be but if you wanted you could switch off the main switch isolating the whole house to make sure. Assuming you're not fighting with conductors trying to re-terminate them, I should think it wouldn't really take very long at all to replace these fittings.
Stunning advice
I think the words you are looking for are 'Approved Voltage Indicator'
Both cavities require work.
The light switch and the socket cavities need to be cleaned and all excess plaster chipped away (stanley knife, builder chisel or hacksaw blade).
Flat plate accessories have more gubbins behind them and won't close on to a wall if the space isn't the same square as the back box.
The wall should also be free of indents and waves, the plaster needs to be smooth and flat otherwise the plate sits wrong and will look poo.
For a socket the void needs to be 30mm + and for a l/switch 25mm+
The light switch and the socket cavities need to be cleaned and all excess plaster chipped away (stanley knife, builder chisel or hacksaw blade).
Flat plate accessories have more gubbins behind them and won't close on to a wall if the space isn't the same square as the back box.
The wall should also be free of indents and waves, the plaster needs to be smooth and flat otherwise the plate sits wrong and will look poo.
For a socket the void needs to be 30mm + and for a l/switch 25mm+
But surely the circuit would have been safely isolated before any accessories had been removed? A paint brush works wonders too.
I'd also neatly break away the plaster that overlaps in front of the box to create a neat square entrance.
Calm down.
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