Single Oven Connection.

[alba2]

I am renovating our kitchen. The single oven is going to be relocated across the room from its present position beneath the hob. The hob will remain where it is on the cooker radial circuit.

There is a double 13 amp socket available at the other location. It is a pyrolitic oven with a total 3.5 Kw rating. Is this sufficient?

In addition I will be having a 1000w combination microwave along side the pyrolitic oven. The mw also has a 1500w grill.

1. Am I correct in asssuming that a twin 13 amp socket would be insufficient for these 2 units if they were both on at the same time?

2. If I only used the oven on this twin socket would that be appropriate?

3. Rather than have a new radial circuit all the way back to the CU, which is very difficult because of laminate flooring and the distance away, would a spur from another 13 amp socket in the kitchen be an acceptable method of supplying either the oven or the microwave?

4. There is a 13 amp socket on another ring circuit for the living room directly through a plasterboard wall behind the position for the oven and mw. Would it be acceptable to take a spur from here and connect to an FCU and socket to supply either the mw or oven?

5. If none of the above is suitable, what are the possible alternatives?

The 2 ring circuits and the existing cooker circuit, terminate in MCB 32G fuses.

Immediately next to these 3 fuses there is an 80A/30G RCD.

The main switch is 100A.

Thanks

 

[Aragorn84]

The 3.5KW oven needs its own radial circuit. You cant run that on a 13A plug.

 

[alba2]

Thanks for your reply.

The reason I mentioned the 13 amp socket connection for the oven is because this method for connecting an oven is mentioned a few times on this site.

At present the oven is connected along with the hob to the 32 amp cooker unit. If I was to take a long lead from the cooker unit across the room to the oven at the new position, would this be ok? Basically it would be the same connection as is, but with a longer feed to the oven.

I managed to track down more technical info on both the oven and the mw. The connected load for the mw is 3.4 kw and a 13 amp fuse stated.

The oven connected load is 3.5 kw and a 16 amp fuse is stated.

 

[Aragorn84]

The problem there is that the manufacturer wants it protected by a 16A fuse, and its currently protected by a 30A fuse....

So even its existing setup isnt really "by the book"

Ideally you want to run a dedicated 16A radial for the oven.

 

[alba2]

Thanks for coming back.

I don't want to have to pull up and possibly damage a large quantity of laminate from the kitchen through the hall to the CU, so was hoping that some of my suggestions above for relocating the oven would be suitable.

You use the word 'ideally', so are any of my proposals acceptable?

 

[Aragorn84]

I'm not a spark, so i cant say for sure, but in my mind, if the appliance should be fused at 16A and is currently fused at 30A then thats not right.

Could you drop the cable down under the floor, or run it behind the cabinets etc to get it to the CU?

 

[alba2]

No the problem is that the CU is quite a distance from the kitchen and it is laminate flooring all the way.

Sorry, I had a typo and misled you by saying 30 amp.

 

[sparkwright]

are we happy with the 3.4 kw mw connected to the kitchen sockets?

would we be happy with the oven and mw wired to the 32 A cooker supply cable?

probably not.

is the old cooker cable 6 mm?

could a 2 way consumer unit be connected to the end of this 6 mm cable, and be situated somewhere appropriate in the kitchen?
and fit 2 16 A MCBs in the CU, one to serve the oven and one to serve the mw.
20 A double pole switches could be fitted to control these two ovens (or in the case of the manufacturer's instructions the mw may need a 13 A switched fused spur unit).

not the most conventional way of wiring a kitchen i know, but you said getting cables to the main CU would be difficult.

 

[Aragorn84]

surely that original cooker cable is still supplying the cooker hob though, which in itself could be drawing 6 or 7kw...

Putting the cooker hob, oven and microwave all on that cable does seem to be pushing things quite a bit, and even hob and oven would probably exceed the 32A breaker if you fired them all up at once?

 

[sparkwright]

surely that original cooker cable is still supplying the cooker hob though, which in itself could be drawing 6 or 7kw...

Putting the cooker hob, oven and microwave all on that cable does seem to be pushing things quite a bit, and even hob and oven would probably exceed the 32A breaker if you fired them all up at once?

i forgot about the hob

 

[Aragorn84]

 

[alba2]

Thanks to you both, for the help.

Sparkwright, would your suggestion of a mini CU in the kitchen work if the MW was connected to the 13 amp kitchen ring, and the mini CU then supplied the induction hob at a 7.2 kw 30 amp load, and across the room, the pyrolitic single oven at 3.4 kw 15 amp load?

There is a double 13 amp socket where I want to locate the MW immediately next to the oven.

Although the combination MW has a load of 3.4 kw Electrolux say it should have a 13 amp fuse. I am also assuming that a 13 amp plug would be appropriate. I still have to check whether it comes with a 13 amp plug.

The wiring at the cooker supply switch appears pretty massive.

 

[Aragorn84]

7.2kw and 3.5kw is a total load of 10.7kw which is around 45A at 240v.

That 6mm cable MIGHT be able to handle 45A if its installed in a certain way (clipped direct), but you would need to verify its routing before changing it, and i would imagine its a bit unlikely that it IS installed like that.

If it was routed in such a way as to be able to handle the full 45A then you could do what you propose.

If not you'd have a possible load of 45A sitting on a 32A breaker, which while not dangerous, would simply mean that in the middle of cooking a big meal (say xmas dinner?) when you've got all the hob rings and the oven going, you will trip the breaker.

I'm sure theres some diversity you can apply to a cooker circuit and a spark can probably confirm, but its certainly not ideal.

 

[Aragorn84]

Are you certain the cooker actually has 6mm cable?

You say its "massive"... can you get any rough measurements from it?

 

[alba2]

I think it is 6 mm but I would have it checked.

It is a conventional routing within the plasterboard walls of a modern property, which was built 10 years ago.