Soldering End Feed 10mm pipe

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Hi there,

I need to replace the radiator in my Kitchen for a much smaller Rad. The pipework is 10mm copper :mad: that runs down the wall to the centre of the existing Rad. I'm planning on cutting the 2 pipe before they fan out to the valves and run in new pipework to the new valves.

This is going to mean 2x straight couplings and 4 x elbows to do a neat job. The price of solder ring joints in 10mm is a tad scary :eek: so I was going to use end-feed joints which I have already from having moved a rad before and bought a bag full of mixed bits (Then it was only one joint, I bottled it and used solder ring :oops: ).

Cut a long story short, What is the best technique for soldering this little stuff with end-feed joints, are they any good etc.

All advice not involving sex and travel most gratefully received :LOL:

Thanks
Merv
 
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its all dont's

dont use to much flux
dont use to much solder
dont use to much heat

do make sure the pipe and the inside of the fitting are clean

other than that doddle ;) ;)
 
use "Laco" flux on the pipe only, and make sure the old pipe etc is dry.
 
Thanks for the replies, Just had a thought..

I have plenty of spare 10mm pipe and end-feed joints that I could practice on. Is there any way of determining if the joint has been successfully soldered without putting it under water pressure?

Thanks again.
Merv
 
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Allenm said:
Thanks for the replies, Just had a thought..

I have plenty of spare 10mm pipe and end-feed joints that I could practice on. Is there any way of determining if the joint has been successfully soldered without putting it under water pressure?

Thanks again.
Merv

You can tell a good joint by the way it runs, or test it with a foot pump
 
One of the more useful things we did in college was to solder an endfeed coupler on the end of a bit of pipe then cut/peel it off with a junoir hacksaw and pliers. Easiest if you just solder one end of the coupler.
See what happens if you overheat it before youadd the solder - enough to keep you awake at night!
 
The plumbers here will disagree ( they are usually disagreeable anyway! )

For someone who is not very experienced then using flux cored radio solder is much easier.

I gave a trainee a short length to use to "repair" his leaking end fed joints. He became so carried away with its ease of use that he wanted to use it on all end feed joints. Of course its 60% lead and cannot be used on potable water of course.

Tony Glazier
 
Have to agree a little multicore can remedy many joints that would not be otherwise repairable, or even if you have prepared a joint well and one small part is reluctant to take - a touch of the flux in the multicore will turn it around. Never tried a joint from scratch with it though, as its only 1.5mm diameter max. you may need to twist two or three strands together. good luck!
 
Agile said:
The plumbers here will disagree ( they are usually disagreeable anyway! )

For someone who is not very experienced then using flux cored radio solder is much easier.

I gave a trainee a short length to use to "repair" his leaking end fed joints. He became so carried away with its ease of use that he wanted to use it on all end feed joints. Of course its 60% lead and cannot be used on potable water of course.

Tony Glazier

far be it for me to dissapoint you tony ;)
 
Agile said:
The plumbers here will disagree ( they are usually disagreeable anyway! )Tony Glazier

Ooooh all right then. :evil: :evil:

if you use proper yorkshire traditional flux it's easy. :cool: :cool:
 

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