some advice regarding a shed

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Cumbria
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Hi everyone,

I am thinking of building my own shed down the bottom of my garden just away from my fence ...The shed will be 12 x12 foot and 7 feet high ..

Was thinking of making wooden base once i have sorted my foundation out ... I thought of using 3 4x4 treated skids ...and build the base frame from treated 4x4... The side walls and front walls will be 4x2 for the framing ..I thought of having the roof pitch at 6/12 using trusses ,here is where i need some advice as i have never done this before and have been reading online about roof pitches etc.

I was thinking of leaving 12" overhang on the rafters after cutting out my birds mouth and nailing to the top plate..

Because the shed will be 12ft wide do i need to cut the rafter to 7ft foot each side at 6/12 pitch this including my 12 " overhang ?? how many trusses would you advise for this size. ..also i was thinking of 16 oc for floor base and 24" oc for front/side walls..
All advice welcome as i am planning this so i don't run into trouble.

Waiting in anticipation for your professional advice.
 
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built my 10x12 ft 8 years ago


all timbers 3x2 at 2ft centers floor and walls
 
built my 10x12 ft 8 years ago


all timbers 3x2 at 2ft centers floor and walls
Looks really good ..do you think i am over doing it using 4x4 and 4x2? also any advice regarding trusses that i mentioned ??
 
did you click on the picture to see the other pictures including roof detail :?: :?:
 
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did you click on the picture to see the other pictures including roof detail :?: :?:
yes i have also seen it before i think ..you done a good job there ..hard to tell though with roof as it's not a full pic of roof inside .Like i said it's my first a tempt at a shed ..was gonna buy one but most look flimsy so would rather have a go myself and try to make it last. :p
 
look at the picture off the front and you can see the "A" frame shape and size

workshop002.jpg

to keep height down the ends are at approx 30 degrees to zero so you have 3" frame 12mm ply and a 3x2 50mm face giving 140mm bearing area for the ends
with the ends off the a frame stopping on the outside edge off the wall plate

the side walls are 6ft tall the a frame is around 6ft 3 center clearence

the actual span is around 7ft for the bottom cord off the "A" frame
i recon if yours is 12ft it will be 9ft

if you choose birds mouths and 4" timber you will be around 1 ft higher and close to limits without needing planning
 
I might just drop the height to 6ft instead of 7ft ..as the trusses will add some height like you said ..was thinking of doing the trusses like this in a pic i found on the net http://www.open.ac.uk/wikis/SNPL/images/c/ca/Fdgdfgd.jpg are these trusses just using gussets to hold them together at there peaks as i cannot tell right from the pic ? can i get away without a centre roof beam running right across ? do you think the trusses will be ok like this for the size of my shed..will also go 24" oc for wall frames and and 16" oc for floor Cheers :)
 
my ridge is just the 18mm ply butted together with the several layers off felt holding it solid

in my roof i have one gap off 4ft between "A" frames if you go for 2ft gaps you will get away with a frames like i have used even though your span is 2ft greater

my frames are dead simple and flat with 12mm ply plates at all 3 joints
3 screws in each side each section or 12 per join
and because they are made from 3x2" the ply plates make them 3" thick the same thickness as the back and front wall
 
Cheers for that big-all ..will wait for weather to get better (here's hoping lol) before i have ago..But at least i can plan it all before i start .
 
because my roof was 10ft wide and i wanted a 6" overhang and i had to work with 6ft boards as the other 2ft was used to make the floor up to the 10 ft from 8 foot

so what i did was take 2x6ft lengths off timber
mark 10 ft on the floor then 6 inches beyond either side when the timber end touched the outer line and the center line i drew under the timber each side this gave me the angle off the roof
i then drew the full "A" frame on the floor as a plan[rod] to work to
i then mass produced the components laid them on top and they all came out identical

just remember in my design you need to use sheet material as there is nothing at the ridge to fix things to and the overhang outside is only the ply with only wood added around the edges
 
because my roof was 10ft wide and i wanted a 6" overhang and i had to work with 6ft boards as the other 2ft was used to make the floor up to the 10 ft from 8 foot

so what i did was take 2x6ft lengths off timber
mark 10 ft on the floor then 6 inches beyond either side when the timber end touched the outer line and the center line i drew under the timber each side this gave me the angle off the roof
i then drew the full "A" frame on the floor as a plan[rod] to work to
i then mass produced the components laid them on top and they all came out identical

just remember in my design you need to use sheet material as there is nothing at the ridge to fix things to and the overhang outside is only the ply with only wood added around the edges
Thanks again this info is real useful to me ..I have a better understanding now ..Prefer to do my own like you did as you can customize it to how you want. ;)

ps Was thinking of using 18mm ply for the sheeting of the roof like you did and felt it after .
 
be warned i used 9 sheets and it was more than the £240 ish pounds for the pressure treated 5" txg shiplap :eek:
 
be warned i used 9 sheets and it was more than the £240 ish pounds for the pressure treated 5" txg shiplap :eek:
I know it's gonna cost me a bit but if i want summat to last a few good years then it will be worth it at the end :)

I bet you are glad with yours now and would prefer a self build to one of the shelf so to speak lol.. will also be using it for a workshop as well..To be honest i could build a bigger one as i have a massive garden but i think 12x12 will be fine for what i want.
 
as an aside the front roof doors require a central baton to hang from this is the only one with a central bit all the rest are literally "A" frames with most timber not actually using the doors but being moved central tail end in the air and the front off the wood drops down and slides out under the the head off the door "A" frame
i have also introduced a hatch on the solid door that allows the saw to be used without opening that door
other improvements are dust extraction in the roof "V" to save space down below
 
still waiting to add a bit more dosh for when i start to build my shed..I have seen this shed on fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GARDEN-SH...den_Structures_Fencing_CV&hash=item43b1a5ef48

Anyone reckon it looks ok ...Price not bad and i guess i could add some strengthening if it feels like it's needed once up ? Just thinking that it could be easier and quicker ( waiting for a sunny day LOL) to put this up and save a bit of time instead of starting from scratch ..Any comments appreciated :D
 
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