I'm replacing my wooden kitchen worktops (40mm from Howdens). Thres a right angle join in a corner and I've removed the butterflies, but can't split the joint. I'm assuming it will be glued? What's the best way to split it please?
Splitting Kitchen Worktops
- Thread starter lancs_lad
- Start date
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It'll be disposal. I'd use a circular saw but don't want to damage the carcasses.
Make sure there are no other fixings holding the tops to the underneath cupboars. If there are then remove them. Tr to prise them off the cupboard tops with the use of a broad chisel and heavy mallet. This may have the effect of splitting the glue in the joint.
Alternatively, set your circular saw blade to a depth of about 1-2mm LESS than the worktop and cut along the joint. This will seriously weaken and glue holding them together, and then prise them up from below to separate them.
Alternatively, set your circular saw blade to a depth of about 1-2mm LESS than the worktop and cut along the joint. This will seriously weaken and glue holding them together, and then prise them up from below to separate them.
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Lift the ends furthest from the joint the extra leverage should break any joints .
as above
if the work top is tiled in as in a splashback all round giving a ontop lip off perhaps 10mm and possibly at one or more ends
you need to fashion a plan to whether a parallel "slide to release " is possible then remove grout/silicon /other filler to permit enough to release to sit on other timber [2x1/22x44mm]to clear the cabinets underneath and set the depth to worktop plus 3mm
now iff you cant get the work top out perhaps 90mm the saw base will hit the wall needing a buzzy toy to finish
if its fully locked in all round then as conny says 1-2mm short but in a v wedge off perhaps 30 degrees stopping about 2" inches appart as the circ saw hits the wall with the buzzy toy removing to the wall
as an aside use a brand new blade on the buzzy to cut within 10mm off any non wood surface then replace with a knackered blade for the last 10mm so saving your best blades
if the work top is tiled in as in a splashback all round giving a ontop lip off perhaps 10mm and possibly at one or more ends
you need to fashion a plan to whether a parallel "slide to release " is possible then remove grout/silicon /other filler to permit enough to release to sit on other timber [2x1/22x44mm]to clear the cabinets underneath and set the depth to worktop plus 3mm
now iff you cant get the work top out perhaps 90mm the saw base will hit the wall needing a buzzy toy to finish
if its fully locked in all round then as conny says 1-2mm short but in a v wedge off perhaps 30 degrees stopping about 2" inches appart as the circ saw hits the wall with the buzzy toy removing to the wall
as an aside use a brand new blade on the buzzy to cut within 10mm off any non wood surface then replace with a knackered blade for the last 10mm so saving your best blades
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