Sqealing toilet, taps etc since going plastic?!

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Hi

Ever since I redone the bathroom and changed it to plastic I've had the issue of sqealing when the taps are either turned off or when the toilet cistern has nearly filled.

Seems like as the supply is stopped then the sqealing comes, has a little whine then stops. It's only effecting upstairs as the kitchen seems ok.

Any idea what this could be? I did consider replacing the main into the house as I thought it could be the stopcock in the kitchen. The plastic pipe also runs from under the kitchen sink to the bathroom without any joins so it has two sweeping curves before any Tees are used.

A little confused here. Any ideas?

Thanks
 
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I think it's the diaphragm washer to the WC has distorted, this then acts as a reed and will squeal when the cistern is nearly full.
 
I think they're all wide open but I'll have to check thanks.
 
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I think it's the diaphragm washer to the WC has distorted, this then acts as a reed and will squeal when the cistern is nearly full.
It's happening on turning the hot bath tap off too and it all started at the same time. Maybe it'll disappear when I redo the kitchen in plastic.
 
The noises you describe are known as 'water hammer', this is where a jumper or washer on a valve is acting as a reed, the same action as a reed would in a musical instrument. The vibration echoes back through the pipework, although not as tuneful. You need to find out which valve is the problem, and fix it. The WC cistern has already been suggested.
 
Yeah I used speedfit with the superseals and cut it where the arrows were so all the pipes should be fine.
 
Lol ok yeah they are apart from where they run up the soil stack then they're under their own weight. It's all boxed in.
 
I adjusted the tap position on the main stop cock and it has kind of resolved. New tap? Mean I was have to turn it off from the street and it's coming in on a steel feed. :(

Maybe just leave it? Not sure of the cost to replace these.
 
If adjusting the tap alters the sound then that sounds like where your issue is. Not that much of an issue changing the tap, if you can turn the supply off from the street then you could use a universal transition coupler from philmac or plasson to change from steel to copper then adding a tap will be straightforward.
 

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