Standalone elec cooker to elec hob & oven

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Only downfall i can see now is that the oven has no 13amp fuse as before, only the 32amp in the consumer unit.

This is why you can't just use a junction box. The cable to the oven will not be rated to 32A.

The options are:

1. A cooker switch with a socket outlet included (and add an RCD to the circuit). Untidy, since the oven will plug in above the worktop.

2. If you can't have or don't want an RCD, install a standard cooker switch with no socket above the worktop. Fit an unswitched single socket and a cooker outlet plate behind the oven. Label this 'Oven Only', plug the oven into the socket and wire the hob to the outlet plate. Use a decent quality single socket, as the terminals will need to accept 2x6mm wires. (Consumer unit - switch - socket - outlet plate).

3. Wire the hob to the cooker circuit and plug the oven into a socket supplied from a separate circuit.
 
Although what flameport says is in the main correct you asked about legal methods and Part P or Scottish regulations if North of boarder require either the LABC or a registered electrician to issue a completion cert and the cheapest is likely the registered electrician.
17th allows non RCD sockets where labelled for one item only so normal cooker switch with 13A outlet is OK so long as you label. But it also refers to cables buried in walls and you may fall foul of that part.
But since you will in most likely hood need to employ an electrician he will advise on that anyway.
 
In Scotland if a building warrant is not required for the work there is no requirement for certification by LABC or a registered electrician AFAICT. (And i'm yet to hear of any LABC certifying any works themselves in Scotland)

Re Option 2 above: the single socket will be rated at 13?A, in the setup you suggest all the current for both hob and oven would be connected in these terminals Would it not be better to go Consumer unit - switch - outlet plate - socket. Can you get even sockets which would take 2x6mm??

How about 2x 6mm cables or equivalent flex from the outlet plate, one to each appliance and remove the supplied flex, would need to check instructions/oven manufacturer to see if it would be allowed, also suitability of outlet plate.
 
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Dont really see the need for 'certificates',
You will, if you're in England or Wales, and when you come to sell the house you're asked to produce the certificate which confirms that the work complied with the Building Regulations.


when you have a massive orange shop down the road that sells things no questions asked.
They sell gas boilers too.

And one near me is next door to a car dealer, who I expect sells cars with no questions asked about driving licences.
 
Re Option 2 above: the single socket will be rated at 13?A, in the setup you suggest all the current for both hob and oven would be connected in these terminals

Like 13A socket outlets in a 32A circuit, you mean?
 
We never received any paperwork when we bought the house,
Did your solicitor not ask the vendors if any controlled work had been done on the house?


so i assume a NICEIC inspection with PASS on it will provide all evidence that the electrics in the house is up too the correct standards.
[shrug]Feel free to assume that.

Feel free to hope that you'll be right, too.[/shrug]
 

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