hi all got a problem with a kitchen light. started flickering about 2 months ago but worked ok till last week, when i tried to turn it on and nothing happened. requires 4no mr16 20w 12v bulbs so i bought and installed all just in case. my detector lights up on turning the switch on. but no light. my missus did purchase 50w bulbs and installed before i got home but the problem was there before she did this! any ideas??
steel rod track 12v kitchen light
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You need to take the 50watt lamps out and put 20W in.
If there is a transformer there may be a fuse (inside the transformer housing). That will probably have died due to overload.
Throw away the neon screwdriver. It will only tell you lies and mislead you. It will only tell you about the live connection, but not about the neutral. Buy a multimeter (approx £6 for a basic one.
Do you have a dimmer on this light? That may be the cause of the flickering. If so, take it off and replace it with a standard switch; but it sounds like you have some more fundemental issues to sort first!
If there is a transformer there may be a fuse (inside the transformer housing). That will probably have died due to overload.
Throw away the neon screwdriver. It will only tell you lies and mislead you. It will only tell you about the live connection, but not about the neutral. Buy a multimeter (approx £6 for a basic one.
Do you have a dimmer on this light? That may be the cause of the flickering. If so, take it off and replace it with a standard switch; but it sounds like you have some more fundemental issues to sort first!
thanks taylor. i'll do that regarding multimeter.
have changed the bulbs to 20w already, and i'll check to see whether the transformer has a fuse.
would any power get through to the bulb holders if fuse had gone?
no dimmer switch, just normal one way light switch.
i'll get back to you asap. thanks again.
have changed the bulbs to 20w already, and i'll check to see whether the transformer has a fuse.
would any power get through to the bulb holders if fuse had gone?
no dimmer switch, just normal one way light switch.
i'll get back to you asap. thanks again.
Using your multimeter (!). You should get 230volts AC into the light fitting.
Across the two bars that the bulbs connect to you should see 12volts AC.
That is assuming the transformer is a big heavy wire wound type transformer.
Across the two bars that the bulbs connect to you should see 12volts AC.
That is assuming the transformer is a big heavy wire wound type transformer.
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couldn't find my multi meter, bought a new one, digital-very flash.
reading into light is 239-241V (i thought we had all changed to 230V), no reading at all from connection leading from transformer.
fuse is in still intact, so i'm assuming blown transformer, tried to find a small 110/105VA (115mm long) but to no avail so far.
Why was i receiving a detection from my voltage stick previously?
reading into light is 239-241V (i thought we had all changed to 230V), no reading at all from connection leading from transformer.
fuse is in still intact, so i'm assuming blown transformer, tried to find a small 110/105VA (115mm long) but to no avail so far.
Why was i receiving a detection from my voltage stick previously?
This: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/d220/sd2638/p67666
should be suitable as a replacement transformer. (Although size not specified on the website, most transformers are similar size. TS have shops so you can go in and measure the transformer before buying).
The input voltage measured is normal. Can be anywhere from 216 to 253.
Output voltage won't help, as that is an electronic transformer, which will only work with the correct load in place.
However as the input voltage is correct and the lamps work, the transformer must have failed.
Volt sticks are no use in this situation - it will illuminate due to capacitive coupling between the input and output of the transformer.
should be suitable as a replacement transformer. (Although size not specified on the website, most transformers are similar size. TS have shops so you can go in and measure the transformer before buying).
The input voltage measured is normal. Can be anywhere from 216 to 253.
Output voltage won't help, as that is an electronic transformer, which will only work with the correct load in place.
However as the input voltage is correct and the lamps work, the transformer must have failed.
Volt sticks are no use in this situation - it will illuminate due to capacitive coupling between the input and output of the transformer.
thanks flameport, i've checked what looks like that similar transformer and it was to long for the fitting.
cheers for the info too.
cheers for the info too.
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