Strange Emulsion problem

[jamiller]

thanks guys - third eye, just your comment about 'assuming flat wall'. If it is an anaglypta type wall with a bold pattern, do you not bother rubbing down cos of the difficulty or cos there is no need?

 

[jar]

third_eye

Thanks for the suggestion for stripping the paint off - I'll try this when I get my motivation levels up a bit !!

Might give it a miss this weekend, though, maybe next ...

BTW - what's the recommendation for thinning the paint ??

Cheers

 

[Third_Eye]

thanks guys - third eye, just your comment about 'assuming flat wall'. If it is an anaglypta type wall with a bold pattern, do you not bother rubbing down cos of the difficulty or cos there is no need?

My theory is a flat wall is obviously not textured therefore there is "no" textured key, so to speak. Just like when pastering over flat shiny wall then this needs PVA to stick. But on the other hand if a wall has already painted anaglypta type wallpaper on it then the texture of the anaglypta acts as a sort of key. Just like when plastering over a backing plaster that has been "deviled up" i.e. (scratched) as the scratches act as a key to the finishing plaster. But again this does not mean that matt can be applied over silked anaglypta without any concerns of crazing. However, the reason i advize rubbing down silk over silk on flat surfaces are due to reason explained above about creating a key. But in your scenario if silk over silk anaglypta then there is no need to rub down as texture acts a key. Hope this makes sense. Anyhow it would be very difficult to rub down textured painted paper anyway. In other words there is always ways round problems

 

[Third_Eye]

third_eye

Thanks for the suggestion for stripping the paint off - I'll try this when I get my motivation levels up a bit !!

Might give it a miss this weekend, though, maybe next ...

BTW - what's the recommendation for thinning the paint ??

Cheers

Thinning paint is a subject of its own in my opinion as i believe it can only take experience to master it. Do remember that all different makes of paints have different levels of thinning, hence why there seems to be conflicting advize with this subject. To be perfectly honest with you, seeing that your walls have already crazed then i would not take the chance of the same thing happening by using same procedure as before in terms of your immediate enviroment. Hence why strongly advize you coating your surfaces with (once matt emulsion has been removed) Dulux Trade Acrylic Eggshell in the same colour of the your choosen previous chioce.

 

[jamiller]

thanks third eye- again!!.

 

[Third_Eye]

Though be carefull with Dulux Trade Acrylic Eggshell as it has a tendancy to run on walls if applied to haevily or not spread out enough. Also use an short pile roller...........................................and do one wall at a time.

 

[John1947]

Have just read this saga because we have the identical problem,wife in tears having spent all afternoon painting!! Interesting point is that 3 walls that have wood chip paper on are fine only the one which had a plain paper on is affected. They were all previously painted with the same satin finish and we were trying to cover with Dulux rich matt. I really dont fancy trying to scrape it off as I fear for the paper. I wonder if using Dulux" base coat for walls" which uses polyfilla technology for covering up cracks etc might rescue the situation if I used it now on top of the parchment effect and then reapply a topcoat. HELP !!!!

 

[confidentincompetent]

Have just read this saga because we have the identical problem,wife in tears having spent all afternoon painting!! Interesting point is that 3 walls that have wood chip paper on are fine only the one which had a plain paper on is affected. They were all previously painted with the same satin finish and we were trying to cover with Dulux rich matt. I really dont fancy trying to scrape it off as I fear for the paper. I wonder if using Dulux" base coat for walls" which uses polyfilla technology for covering up cracks etc might rescue the situation if I used it now on top of the parchment effect and then reapply a topcoat. HELP !!!!

The only time I see this crazing effect is when emulsion has been put on too thick. I once got over this by giving walls a coat of pva (diluted 1/5) to seal the mudcracking effect then two coats of emulsion (thinned). This was a quick fix measure and worked on this occasion, and customers hubby was pleased I got him out the ****e...

 

[Third_Eye]

Have just read this saga because we have the identical problem,wife in tears having spent all afternoon painting!! Interesting point is that 3 walls that have wood chip paper on are fine only the one which had a plain paper on is affected. They were all previously painted with the same satin finish and we were trying to cover with Dulux rich matt. I really dont fancy trying to scrape it off as I fear for the paper. I wonder if using Dulux" base coat for walls" which uses polyfilla technology for covering up cracks etc might rescue the situation if I used it now on top of the parchment effect and then reapply a topcoat. HELP !!!!

What type of Rich Matt was it you were using ? What type of wallcovering was the one wall ? Also when using Rich Matt (Which i do not rate) you are meant to rub down the surface to break any sheen, as if there is a sheen then the Rich Matt may Craze. Also, in hot weather Rich Matt is meant to be thinned down by 10% ! And Rich Matt is not be used over Vinyl & Washable wallcoverings.

 

[John1947]

The crazed wall had a plain wall paper on it which had been painted about 6 yrs ago with some satin or silk finish emulsion, (either dulux or crown) This was in a very strong lilac colour which contrasted with the pale green and (same)strong lilac colours on the wood chip walls As we wished to change to a very pale shade matt emulsion (Crown "Ghost")we thought it would be a good idea to paint it all white first.(which now sounds like a really crap idea) It is this white coat which has crazed. The white is Dulux magic rich matt. (The one which starts pink and dries white) which we were using for the ceiling anyway.
I am grateful for any advice,particularily if it doesnt involve getting this stuff off !!!

 

[Third_Eye]

My advice is never use any rich matt ever again. Through it in the bin. Am i correct that you explain that the one wall that has crazed had a different colour on it from the rest ? If so what make and type was this ? Was it different make and type from other 3 woodchipped walls ? Is there a fireplace on the one wall that has crazed or a radiator ? What type of wallcovering is on the crazed wall, is it vinyl, light textured blown vinyl, heavy textured blown vinyl or an emboosed ? You need to answer all questions unfortunatly.

 

[jar]

Just come back to this thread after a while and noticed it's still running !

I tried removing the emulsion using third_eye's recommendation on a small area of one of the walls. Not a lot of success. It may eventually come off but it really is a nightmare. Rather than make a total mess of the walls I just left it at this small area.

Looking at other people's posts - would using some other type of paint, with built-in filler type "stuff" maybe be a quicker option ?

Or confidentincompetent's option of using a pva coating then repainting ? What product(s) would this be ?

I'm happier to repaint all the walls again with another type of paint, rather than try stripping the dodgy bits, if I can be reasonably sure it will fix the problem.

Thanks guys

 

[John1947]

To answer 3rd eyes questions about our walls first so I dont get into this sort of mess again
1) All the same type of paint on all the walls although 2 walls were a different colour.
2) Paper was a non vinyl ordinary printed wall paper which had been painted over 6 yrs ago. Afraid I only know it was a silk or satin finish dulux or crown used to paint it.
3) No fireplaces or anything similar to differentiate the crazed wall

Therefore the only difference appears to be that the latest layer of paint went onto a flat surface rather than the wood ingrain one. The inference in reading 3rd eyes comments earlier is that I insufficiently roughed this prior to applying a paint I shouldnt have used any way !!!

In desperation I recoated the crazed wall with one coat of Polycells "base coat for walls" which covered the crazing well and has not cracked on drying. The only slight downside could be that I was left with a slightly stippled effect (too long pile on the roller perhaps?) but this was actually an advantage to me as the other walls are woodchip anyway !! This has now covered perfectly (touch wood ) with F & Bs estate emulsion.
Hope this helps and thanks for the clues along the way.

 

[Third_Eye]

The problem about painting over "crazed" emulsion is it may come back if not completley removed, whether it be 3 months or in 6 years. I only know this cos i have seen it happen.

 

[jar]

Has anyone used or heard of any products to help strip emulsion off since I am struggling with just the water ?

I've searched and found these links

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/I_want_to_remove.htm#7

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/products.htm#g

These lists the product "STRIPPER NB-510" to be used for emulsion removal

Don't know how useful this might be ?

Thanks