Stripped seized bold head :(

[freddiemercurystwin]

No need to get it super accurate, you should be able to get a punch near enough in the centre and hold the drill roughly horizontal/straight. You only have to drill as deep as the head though. As long as you haven't drilled hopefully off centre once you have drilled to that depth the head will come off with a twist in the mole grips there will be so little metal holding it on.

 

[Mursal]

Hi, if you get serious with the hammer and try shock it. You may need to use an extension.

Then get a 6 sided 12mm or a 1/2 imperial socket and or panner (just a little smaller than 13mm and persuade it up on the damaged head. Keep hitting the socket/spanner up onto the head as you try to turn the handle.

Good luck it wont look pretty but it just might get you away.

 

[Burnerman]

Rock and roll with the angle grinder mate - I'll don't think you'll get a drill on square enough.
Then, heat the stub up as much as you can - Mapp gas is the best for this, and keep the flame away from the driveshaft boot!
John

 

[Peter.N.]

Tool station do some grips for removing rounded nuts/bolt heads, if you have room to get it on, they are sort of one handed stilsons. Personally I would slide a larger nut over it and weld it as already mentioned, never fails - unless the bolt breaks of course

Peter

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

So what happened?

 

[Avocet]

Machine Mart sell those Irwin extracttors if you have one nearby:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...crew-bolt-extractor-set?da=1&TC=SRC-extractor

 

[johnc86]

Well in the end I opted for grinding off the bold head. Then I still had to get the bolt out of the bracket which was a pita! I had to use the angle grinder to make grind a flat surface to either side of the bolt so I could get a wrench around it. Eventually I got it out. Unfortunately I ground a little bit of good metal from the calliper holding bracket doing when this on the bit where the bolt head sits. I’m hoping this wont matter. I bought some new bolts and guy who sold them too me had a look and said it should be safe. Everything went back into place perfectly and I got it all nice and tight. The bolts that ford use are absolute cack. I think Iv rounded another one off tightening it up! Anyway I drove 12 miles to work today and it stops well with no squealing or anything so am really happy.

A half hour job took best part of 2 days because of the sh*tty bolt.

I still haven’t done the other side but Iv decided it can wait till Monday when Iv got 2 days off in case anything goes wrong! Hopefully dong the 2 sides a couple of days apart wont matter too much. I wont be driving excessive miles in the mean time.

Thanks for all the input I couldn’t have done without all your help.

Cheers.

 

[Burnerman]

Nice one John, well done.
Your wee bit of excess grinding won't do any harm at all.
John

 

[johnc86]

Cheers pal that puts my mind at rest a bit .

If I get a chance later I migth just upload a couple of pics of the excess grinding just for you to have a quick look at if you dont mind?

 

[Burnerman]

This is the sort of application where full hexagon sockets are an absolute boon.....tap them on over the bolt head to dislodge rust and the job's half done.
Peugeot / Citroen are using a large Torx bolt for these fixings commonly - and you get one shot before the heads round off.
I still can't recall seeing 13mm caliper bracket bolts! I thought 17mm was the common size. It must be a flange bolt I guess.
John

 

[chris rushton]

try a monkey wrench. they have worked for me in the past

 

[wotan]

Grind the damaged bolt head off, you will then be left with the stub of the bolt same thickness as the caliper, you should be able to get a stud extractor to remove this, or alternatively use a small stiltson wrench.

Wotan