Building my first few stud walls currently and it seems to be the way that you fix a top joist to the ceiling and then uprights to that. If I have a stud wall going perpendicular to my ceiling / loft joists, wouldn't I be better off fixing the uprights directly to them, and then add noggins at ceiling height? Wouldn't that be a far simpler and stronger solution?
Stud wall uprights fixed directly to loft joists?
- Thread starter untrepid
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Far more complicated and not as strong.
Care to elaborate??
and each one needs plumbing up individually too.
set out your walls on the floor not the ceiling and plumb everything up from there, two end legs fixed to the header, set it on the sole plate and wedge the legs out, plumb each end then uprights naturally follow plumb between sole and header
set out your walls on the floor not the ceiling and plumb everything up from there, two end legs fixed to the header, set it on the sole plate and wedge the legs out, plumb each end then uprights naturally follow plumb between sole and header
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Could not have put it better .
You didn't even try!
I fixed one upright to the wall, one at the other end, then screwed a joist to those two about a foot from the ceiling. From then on each middle joist just rested against the temporary one, and they seem happily plumb and I'm still given to think it's more robust.
It's certainly slower, but as this is DIY not my profession, I'm not seeing any reason it's a bad idea, and I've a much neater result than I'd have had otherwise.
So you have no timber against the ceiling?You didn't even try!
I fixed one upright to the wall, one at the other end, then screwed a joist to those two about a foot from the ceiling. From then on each middle joist just rested against the temporary one, and they seem happily plumb and I'm still given to think it's more robust.
It's certainly slower, but as this is DIY not my profession, I'm not seeing any reason it's a bad idea, and I've a much neater result than I'd have had otherwise.
doubt it will make any difference structurally, but a lot of faffing around, are you saying you started one end fixed noggins and then put the next upright in and so on then noggined out the top.
But remember every time you create an extra unnecessary joint you add a point of weakness, as I said probably won't matter structurally for a stud wall though.
But remember every time you create an extra unnecessary joint you add a point of weakness, as I said probably won't matter structurally for a stud wall though.
So how how are you going to fix plasterboard at the top with nothing there? insecure into corner joint the plasterboard cannot be filled or plastered successfully.
As in the photo, there are noggins an inch below ceiling height. Doing it this way has meant the the uprights don't need to be measured at any point, which by my measuring skills is a big win. I'd rather the extra noggins were a few mil short here or there rather than the uprights. this way I just need to nip up into the loft at some point and chop of anything poking above the rafters.
So how are you intending to fill the gap where ceiling meets wall board? Timber looks to be 2x2? flimsy for a stud wall.
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