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Suspended ceiling unusual framing method

Where have you got the idea that you can't fix to the steel? You're making it hard for yourself
Structural loading calcs for the steel beam require the beam be unholed. Even with a large safety factor (e.g. failure at 10x loading or whatever) it's not worth risking it.
 
Structural loading calcs for the steel beam require the beam be unholed. Even with a large safety factor (e.g. failure at 10x loading or whatever) it's not worth risking it.
Are you for real? Or is this one of those wind-up threads?

BTW if you really want to be a stickler you'll never find a fire test for using a timber subframe on a steel beam to fix fire cladding to.
 
Are you for real? Or is this one of those wind-up threads?

BTW if you really want to be a stickler you'll never find a fire test for using a timber subframe on a steel beam to fix fire cladding to.

I plan to add a subframe for the whole floor so the steel beams won't be visible. Yes I know that the pink fireboard will effectively be a waste of time but hey if it gives me extra time to get out why not.

It's not the fire test but the reduction in structural strength that will happen if I drill 4mm holes through the steel beam. Having more vertical drop down wood from ceiling (itself screwed into joist above) is far safer than drilling holes in steel beams and attaching the timber subframe into.

The personality is not appreciated
 
Were you looking for advice/suggestions or just wanting confirmation that your workmanship is magnificent?

It's your house, you can do what you like to it. You might need to learn plastering though, as no plasterer is going to skim that lot.
 
Were you looking for advice/suggestions or just wanting confirmation that your workmanship is magnificent?

It's your house, you can do what you like to it. You might need to learn plastering though, as no plasterer is going to skim that lot.
Well the advice I got was to 1) drill into steel beams (no I don't want a 50kg steel beam buckling and falling down), 2) redo plasterboard (fair enough I will do), 3) add rigidity to the frame (which I will do by adding vertical drop downs). So no I know I didn't do a good job - but half the advice I got didn't register the steel beams.
 
Well the advice I got was to 1) drill into steel beams (no I don't want a 50kg steel beam buckling and falling down), 2) redo plasterboard (fair enough I will do), 3) add rigidity to the frame (which I will do by adding vertical drop downs). So no I know I didn't do a good job - but half the advice I got didn't register the steel beams.
How pray tell do you think steel beams are joined together??

Post 17; where does 10x load come from?? Steel beams don't "fail" as such: they simply deflect more than the allowable limit.
 
How pray tell do you think steel beams are joined together??

Post 17; where does 10x load come from?? Steel beams don't "fail" as such: they simply deflect more than the allowable limit.
What's your point? Why is my point that 'it's better to vertically hang timber than drill through steel beams' so controversial? It's COMMON SENSE
 
What's your point? Why is my point that 'it's better to vertically hang timber than drill through steel beams' so controversial? It's COMMON SENSE
Some self tapering screws into an RSJ will not affect it’s strength or integrity.
 
This thing's full of holes. 6.5 million of them in fact.

Close_up_on_the_Forth_Bridge%2C_Scotland_arp.jpg



The OP needs to notify the government that it's been weakened so is about to collapse. It seems to have survived the last 135 years fairly well though.
 
Only in your mind I'm afraid.
Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers ( one either end) with no need to fix the timber to the steel beam (which is above)? Would this work?
 

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