Switch in kitchen

[andemz]

Just want to put this to you.

I have a ring main in the kitchen RCD protected 32 MCB. On the ring i am putting an unswitched 13 AMP socket in a cupboard where i will plug in a transformer that will supply my outside lights. It is the B&Q range. click the link for a picture.http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/images/product/largeImage/5011274795320_H_1_x.jpg

So that is what is happening below the work surface, but obviously i need to operate it from above the work surface. I have pulled a wire from the unswitched plug, well i guess this could be unswitched or switched it doesn't matter and this wire is in a single back box above the worksurface. the wire is 2.5mm T&E as is the rest of the kitchen ring main.

Can you please advise what switch i need (i.e switched fused) 20amp, 40amp DP as i have lost the plot on this one.

 

[mapj1]

Either a switched fuse of the 13A flavour,
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=19522&id=13585
or something that can handle all the current the ring can suppply if unfused (so 32A or more if not fused). The next common size is 40 or 45 A, big bruisers.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=19610&id=18826
you may prefer the neatness of option 1...
M.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm confused about what you've done so far..

I have a ring main in the kitchen RCD protected 32 MCB. On the ring i am putting an unswitched 13 AMP socket

Do you mean you are spurring off the ring? I assume you do, as from what you've written later, I can't see how you can be putting this socket on the ring.

I have pulled a wire from the unswitched plug, well i guess this could be unswitched or switched it doesn't matter and this wire is in a single back box above the worksurface.

(I guess you mean that you've taken a cable from the socket, not the plug..).

So you've got a spur cable running to the socket, and then you've got another cable running to a box above the worktop?

Or all you've got is this cable from the new socket to the box?

Where's the ring in relation to that back box?

i have lost the plot on this one.

I think I have too.....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

or something that can handle all the current the ring can suppply if unfused (so 32A or more if not fused)

What - just like sockets can, you mean?

We're all quite happy with the idea of sockets, and presumably the switches in them, being rated at somewhere between 13A and 20A, and having those on a ring, so on what basis do you argue that a switch on its own needs to be rated at at least 32A?

 

[securespark]

Ban is correct. The switch you use to control the appliance only needs to be rated to control the appliance, so a 20A DP switch would suffice because the load would be max 13A.

The ring will indeed carry more, but that will be joined in the feed terminals, not the load side......