- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,791
- Reaction score
- 2,647
- Country
The keyword there RG, is "should"....and as no one has mentioned it so far:
View attachment 263112
The keyword there RG, is "should"....and as no one has mentioned it so far:
View attachment 263112
But you can't always inspect these areas without dismantling of the appliance.I appreciate that, but are there not instructions for determining whether something is Class II regardless of a sticker?
That is: double insulation, cable restraint, terminals enclosed in an insulated enclosure etc.
I realise no one would want to bother but it would be possible to make a Class I item into Class II by altering the connection method and conversely, for the same reason, an originally Class II item might subsequently become Class I - even if it had an indelible Class II marking.
What I am getting at is that it is not the sticker, or indelible marking, which magically makes an item Class II.
There has to be an equipment register, and the register should show where it is used, so for example a radio with a fig of 8 two pin power lead set I would pass for use in the office, but fail for use on the factory floor due to the amount of water used and the lead could fall in the water. Also the length of time before next test is due depended on the environment so workshop equipment every 3 months, but an office PC could be 4 years.What about when you plug that item into a socket that isn't? After all they are portable appliances!
I seem to remember fans where the only exposed metal part was the shaft to the fan, and 25 amp through bearings is not a good thing, so we tested as an IT item even when not really one. Long screwdriver though the cover to reach the shaft.But you can't always inspect these areas without dismantling of the appliance.
Did it have a 13A plug on it?I know one item took three men most of the weekend to inspect and test, the batching plant was clearly portable you could see the wagon wheels used as it went from site to site, seem to remember needed 22 articulated units to move it, wonder how the guys charging so much per item got on with that?
Yes, exactly!I seem to remember fans where the only exposed metal part was the shaft to the fan, and 25 amp through bearings is not a good thing, so we tested as an IT item even when not really one. Long screwdriver though the cover to reach the shaft.
I think part of the issue, is there is no suggestion that the OP's appliance has been provided in an unsafe condition;The keyword there RG, is "should".
And what has that got to do with it? It did have 13A sockets. OK we say PAT, but the real name is "Inspection and testing of in-service electrical equipment" to be portable it needs to either have wheels or be under a weight limit, the batching plant had wheels. No if's or but's it was portable.Did it have a 13A plug on it?
The last dedicated PA test unit I was issued with had a 1363 socket fitted to it and came with an adaptor kit for 4343 plugs.And what has that got to do with it?
@RandomGrinch point about testing new equipment we found a problem as if we found there was a fault a year latter, then it was too late to return under guarantee.
If we are talking about "portable" appliances, how can one know for sure what environment they will be used in?I have failed items with metal parts and no Class II sticker as I can't be sure they are safe in an environment with no RCD protection, but would pass the same item where all circuits are RCD protected, same goes for a wet environment.
We can't!If we are talking about "portable" appliances, how can one know for sure what environment they will be used in?
Kind Regards, John
I'm inclined to disagree, and suggest that it probably is the marking that matters.I appreciate that, but are there not instructions for determining whether something is Class II regardless of a sticker? ... What I am getting at is that it is not the sticker, or indelible marking, which magically makes an item Class II.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local