Why can't you do as Iggifier says? If the cable is that bad then replace the whole cable.
But the ferrules really aren't "crimp terminals" in that sense. The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure. So all the crimp is really there for is a) reduce the size of the tube so it's a close fit on the wire and make it take less room in the terminal, and b) stop it falling off before you've done the screw up.The problem with those is that the quality of the crimp depends entirely on the skill and experience of the operator. Poorly made crimp joints can look OK, and even withstand a pull test, but overheat over time, causing a fire risk. That's why ratchet crimpers came into use.
I read that as you've plastered in the flex that's attached to the appliance.'ve plastered over the channel where the cable lies now, there's nothing wrong with the cable, it's the attached power cable that came with the fire. I'm just looking for a better way to terminate the strands.
No, the terminals are completely different.I bought a ratcheted crimp tool today http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036 < that one. Will that work on bootlace ferrules ?[/url]
The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure. So all the crimp is really there for is a) reduce the size of the tube so it's a close fit on the wire and make it take less room in the terminal, and b) stop it falling off before you've done the screw up
Isn't there confusion here between bootlace ferrules and crimps?
I would consider a crimp as being something that when crimped down makes a good mechanical connection. I would not consider bootlace ferrules as fitting that description - there just in't enough metal in them (or at least all the ones I've seen).
Going back in time I recall there were ferrules designed to be crushed by the terminal screw without prior crimping. They did protect the strands from being cut by the rotating screw as it put pressure on the wire. They were very thin metal. The trick with then was to strip the wire longer than the ferrule and fold the excess back over the ferrule to stop the ferrule falling of the wire before it was put in the terminal and "crimped" ( crushed ) by the screw.But the ferrules really aren't "crimp terminals" in that sense. The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure.
Well neither have I - once they're under the terminal screw/clamp then completely secure. I've also noted that when working in control panels at work (built by others), all the ferrules are squashed to the shape of the clamp which would not be the case with "crimps".I would consider a crimp as being something that when crimped down makes a good mechanical connection. I would not consider bootlace ferrules as fitting that description - there just in't enough metal in them (or at least all the ones I've seen).
You ain't doing them right then.
I've never had one fail
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