Tester Screwdriver
- Thread starter compynei
- Start date
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That “electrician’s” screwdriver is an error, to start with.
First error was employing whoever wired that rats nest
Shouldn’t he be testing the live (red) terminal?
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And what do you call the yellow and blue phases ?
Neutral and earth?
I think you’ll find that is a line terminal!
Don’t the red,blue and yellow markers give you some sort of clue??
Not being an electrician, no. It was just a guess. What CO and HC readings would you expect from a pre 1980 petrol engined vehicle? I won’t try to be smart if you guess and get it wrong.
You’d be better off sticking with car maintenance then, or whatever the day job is.
Guessing is not something we like around here.
Guessing is not something we like around here.
That’s ****ing obvious! Do you think any electricians are going to actually answer the question or just make sarky comments?
Not obvious, obviously
But here ya go
I assume the question is
Answer:
L2 & L3
Does that help?
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I thought the SWA looked like it had been disconnected
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I would not use a neon screwdriver to test mains as a first tool, however where there has been cable damage so only one phase is live, then the neon screwdriver is one of the few tools that will show a live wire.
I remember only too well working on a Robin tunnel boring machine, supply to 10kv into a step down transformer to 660 volt for main motors then a second transformer dropping to 220 volt phase to phase with an IT supply. One needed to hunt for the third phase to have a reference point and the phases took it in turn it seemed being earthed. And some times different sections of the machine would link to different phases, so before touching any metal work one always tested with neon screwdriver, as long as the lump of metal is same polarity as me, touching it will not hurt.
And the number of times when I have come to remove a neutral that the neon has lit, warning me of a borrowed neutral before the clamp on ammeter was sensitive enough to detect current used by single light bulb, I have lost count.
I have seen many a panel with a rats nest like that, and proving dead is not always easy, I had to remove some old cables like what is shown, I used a meter, a proving unit and a neon all showing dead, I hack sawed through what seemed main cable and went for lunch, on return there were sparks coming from the cable. Clearly now live I had to try and find out from where with all cables glued together with concrete from the batching plant, it turned out one old cable fed a transfer motor which was PLC controlled, until the cable sparked and the plant failed, I was unaware the motor even existed. And the panel where the cables connected had been without a lid for years.
After the near miss, I considered what I could do to prove dead, two spikes would be only way, so revising the risk assessment it was decided only when plant was not in use, could the old cables be removed.
The collages can teach us as much as they want, but where there is no wiring plan, mistakes will happen, we of course do spike high voltage cables, my father-in-law related how he has written down on the method statement all cables to be spiked before removal. He found a guy with a spike of a road drill about to hammer it through the cable. Clearly not a clue what would happen if it did carry 3.3kV.
Even with low voltage, ionisation can throw people across a room, and this idea that testing is different to working live is all well and good until one selects wrong holes or wrong range on a meter, specially if leads not fused.
I love my clamp on meter, there is no wired current range, no mistake can cause the big bang, and I can test neutral wires for current before removal, however unless you have a clamp on in your tool box, then the neon screwdriver is essential.
As a P.S. it seems the moulded breaker is "On" so items falling on an isolator or breaker can't switch it on, down is always off, the exception seems to be domestic where tradition has them reversed.
I remember only too well working on a Robin tunnel boring machine, supply to 10kv into a step down transformer to 660 volt for main motors then a second transformer dropping to 220 volt phase to phase with an IT supply. One needed to hunt for the third phase to have a reference point and the phases took it in turn it seemed being earthed. And some times different sections of the machine would link to different phases, so before touching any metal work one always tested with neon screwdriver, as long as the lump of metal is same polarity as me, touching it will not hurt.
And the number of times when I have come to remove a neutral that the neon has lit, warning me of a borrowed neutral before the clamp on ammeter was sensitive enough to detect current used by single light bulb, I have lost count.
I have seen many a panel with a rats nest like that, and proving dead is not always easy, I had to remove some old cables like what is shown, I used a meter, a proving unit and a neon all showing dead, I hack sawed through what seemed main cable and went for lunch, on return there were sparks coming from the cable. Clearly now live I had to try and find out from where with all cables glued together with concrete from the batching plant, it turned out one old cable fed a transfer motor which was PLC controlled, until the cable sparked and the plant failed, I was unaware the motor even existed. And the panel where the cables connected had been without a lid for years.
After the near miss, I considered what I could do to prove dead, two spikes would be only way, so revising the risk assessment it was decided only when plant was not in use, could the old cables be removed.
The collages can teach us as much as they want, but where there is no wiring plan, mistakes will happen, we of course do spike high voltage cables, my father-in-law related how he has written down on the method statement all cables to be spiked before removal. He found a guy with a spike of a road drill about to hammer it through the cable. Clearly not a clue what would happen if it did carry 3.3kV.
Even with low voltage, ionisation can throw people across a room, and this idea that testing is different to working live is all well and good until one selects wrong holes or wrong range on a meter, specially if leads not fused.
I love my clamp on meter, there is no wired current range, no mistake can cause the big bang, and I can test neutral wires for current before removal, however unless you have a clamp on in your tool box, then the neon screwdriver is essential.
As a P.S. it seems the moulded breaker is "On" so items falling on an isolator or breaker can't switch it on, down is always off, the exception seems to be domestic where tradition has them reversed.
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