Texecom Premier Elite 24 - *updated* Connect is too buggy so need help with alternative *Resolved*

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Hi all,

Just after a bit of help, I have tried to flash my Premier Elite 24 panel to the latest v4.03 firmware and fear the panel is bricked. It was on the original firmware from when I installed it some 3 years ago so was on V2.xx (don't know exactly). The reason for updating was to upgrade to the Connect Smartcom. Anyhow, I followed the instructions to the letter, saved all my panel data to Wintex then proceeded to flash. All seemed to be going well, I pressed reset on the flasher and the power went off on the board which I assume is normal? It started the flash and got to the stage "erasing chip" but then I got an error message saying the panel had failed to respond, or something like that. After this the panel is dead, no matter what I do I cannot power it up. There is power there, 13.7 v but nothing is happening. Tried loading defaults by disconnecting the mains and battery, then connecting battery, holding load defaults and applying mains but not a thing. On my keypad it displays v10.100 ADD=100 W=0,0 and then a series of symbols ...which doesn't look a good sign :(
Just wondering if there is anything I can try to bring it back from the dead? Or am I buying a new panel and calling in the pros? :cry:

Any help/advice greatly appreciated (you can point and laugh too, I don't mind :LOL:)

Thanks

Andy
 
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Doubt it’s bricked but it is possible to brick the panel.

The thing to do is go through the flash process agin ensure nothing attached to the com ports before you flash.

Follow the procedure to the letter, makes sure before you strategy everything is connected correctly.
 
Many thanks for this, however, I have tried and as soon as I clicked on flash I instantly got an error message back saying something like no response from the panel. At work tonight so will have another try tomorrow. Would connecting to the panel with Wintex via the USB COM be worth a try? I have com ip at the moment but obviously doesn't work with no power on the main board.

Thanks again, much appreciated :)
 
Well I can’t guess what you have done.

Take pictures of your flasher connection, and all your comports.

The panel shouldn’t be capable of much in its current state from what you have said.
 
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The keypad sounds like it’s not seeing the panel, the keypad is displaying the version of the keypad, it’s address and W referees to the wiring type of the keypad zones if I recall properly so from what you have said I am not Worried too much about it’s display.
 
Yes sorry should have added more detail in my original post. Will have another bash tomorrow and take some photos. Thanks for your help.
 
Ok, made some progress :D It took some doing and plenty of swearing but I have managed to flash the panel to v4.03. It took a good dozen attempts, for whatever reason it would start the flash and then mid cycle would fault saying panel not responding correctly, would try again and sometimes it wouldn't even start the flash cycle and would say cannot connect to com 3. Tried rebooting windows, swapping usb ports and all sorts, each time following instruction to exact letter.....at one point it started the flash and got to only 20 seconds to go and faulted again so I was losing the will to live and giving up hope. EVENTUALLY, it did the flash successfully (y) so loaded defaults and sent panel data through Wintex. Had a bit of bother here too as it said the UDL password didn't match. Changed to 1234 in Wintex and loaded up okay. Smart Com arrives tomorrow so hopefully that goes a bit more smoothly, will let you know how it goes. Thanks secureiam, appreciate your help :)
 
glad you persisted, many panels get thrown away even when they are perfectly fine.

I am sure if you follow the instructions you will be fine.
 
you need to make sure you have programmed in a UDL password in the UDL password section of the panel before you do anything else with the smart com, I think it will make things easier for you.

at panel defaults the udl passcode is the same as the engineers code, there are a few panel versions where that doesn't appear to be the case. if you update it in the panel make sure you update in wintex account and the udl passcode section in udl digi options in wintex so you don't change it when you send across the data.
 
So today I installed my Texecom Smart Com to my PE 24 panel but have run in to an annoying problem. As this is a flash upgraded panel I connected with Wintex via USB COM so I assume a unique GUID was sent to the panel, I have checked this under engineer utilities and there is indeed a code there. I did this before the smart com install. I installed and connected through ethernet then programmed the panel as per instructions, com port 1 set to smartcom, comport 2 set to com ip, UDL password set, ARC 1 protocol set to Texecom Connect and the FIRST time I enabled the app it generated a 6 digit code for the app. I entered this into the app and set it up. However I had some issues with my Android smart phone so I uninstalled and reinstalled the Texecom Connect app, but now the 6 digit code doesn't work, it just says "details not found on server".. The frustrating thing is, I cannot generate a new code on the alarm keypad and get the message "Incorrect config, call terminated". I've gone through the settings over and over but cannot find a problem. I can connect to the panel through wintex via the smart com and I am also still receiving notifications on my phone (too many tbh) so it must have registered on the server....I just cant use the app as the original code doesn't work :mad: Any help suggestions much appreciated (y)
 
App codes are generated and last for 60 minutes and then expire.

incorrect config, hmm were you connected or disconnected from the smart com when you tried to generate the new code.

If you sent anything across from Wintex, I would check the udl passcode is stil populated with the udl passcode.
 
App codes are generated and last for 60 minutes and then expire.

incorrect config, hmm were you connected or disconnected from the smart com when you tried to generate the new code.

If you sent anything across from Wintex, I would check the udl passcode is stil populated with the udl passcode.

Thanks secureiam (y). I have literally just sorted this now. I went in to the panel and set the com ports back to "nothing fitted" set the ARC 1 protocol to "Disabled" logged off then disconnected/reconnected the smart com. Went back into the panel and set the com ports/arc protocol back up as per instructions and this then generated a code successfully. I am just on with trying to set notifications up as I am getting millions of the bloody things, I have found an old thread on here explaining how it can be done through wintex so hopefully will get sorted. A bit disappointed to learn that this smart com will be replaced with the smart hub which will be able to control a lot more apparently, Texecom's info on this product is somewhat sketchy and confusing. I might have waited for the hub and stuck with the com ip in the mean time . I also think I will have to buy another ricochet 8X-W expander as mine has old 2.1.2 firmware that won't work with the new connect hub so I'm told...so that's another £70 :eek:
 
Those are issues you need to take up with Texecom.

Texecom's MD does have a profile on this site and so do some other members of the Texecom team.

Things change and unfortunately, you can't flash the expanders in the field, that said there were hardware changes to the expander since your version to accommodate the wireless keypad. As to where the upgrades stop that is anyones guess. However the only tech needed for wireless expanders as I see it is frequency swapping if a frequency is jammed, as the wireless is capable on working within a limited range of frequencies I would guess it be a firmware issue rather than hardware, but it may not be so straight forward and it may be better to jump well away from that tight frequency range in order to ensure it is well clear of the jammer.

I do wonder if there will be a chance of a wireless, wireless expander, as we now have a keypad that takes up an wireless slot and has full function of a normal keypad so communicates it back down the network.

If you go to the Texecom forums some of these issues have been brought up many times before.

As for the smartcom/hub and not working with your existing wireless expander, what exactly were you advised?
I may know more on the hub after ifsec in June, but they are behind on this.

The biggest issue is full blown compatibility versus things working or not.

In general new wireless devices will work if a panel is flash upgraded (according to technical).
However there appear to be exceptions to this due to how some devices work.

At one time you used to have details in Wintex of what features were added for the panels firmware including bug fixes, which is a real shame as it made life so much easier.

There is no list available for installers like myself to go check on limited or full compatibility, some times its in the device manual, so get hold of the manual and if you can't find the answer ask Texecom to clarify is my advice. Wish there was.

I would have Device, Expander, Panel, these would be split into hardware versions and firmware versions and a column for upgrade route.
This way you could quickly see if the device would work on your expander and panel and what would be needed to get it resolved.
It could also have a comments section when a device has limited compatibility, take a while to set up but once setup adding new data would be easy.
 
As for the smartcom/hub and not working with your existing wireless expander, what exactly were you advised?
I may know more on the hub after ifsec in June, but they are behind on this.

Speaking with a Texecom tech, I mentioned that under "System Requirements" in the Smart Com instruction manual it states "In addition if the system will be using any Ricochet enabled devices the wireless receiver should be V3.0.6 or later"......mine is V2.1.2. He explained that this is for "future projects" and is okay for the Smart Com but won't be for the Smart Hub. He said the Hub won't be a replacement of the smart com but will be a more advanced alternative.

Finally got my connect plug working now, I couldn't add it through the app, it kept saying "not enough room left on your panel" so I have added it manually through the keypad which worked.
 

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