Thermecon Option 40/60

[dr6348]

We ran out of oil.

Having filled the tank, the boiler now keeps locking out. The temperature outside has been as low as -16 C, so I had to heat up the small amount of pipework outside that delivers oil from the tank to house. The boiler fired up and ran for 12 hours or so, but has locked out again (still low temperatures)

I just cleaned the filter, which wasn't too bad. My question - do I need to bleed the system? I'm handy, but not a plumber and can't find an obvious place to bleed. Help! It's getting very cold here!

Thanks in advance.
Dave

I've now bled the system and checked the KBB? button is in on the coil next to the filter. Still no joy and the boiler won't fire. Any suggestions?

 

[spraggo]

If you have bled the oil pump and oil is flowing out of the bleed screw, does the boiler attempt to start, what happens before lock out?.

 

[outinthestix]

If there is oil at the pump and the fan runs then locks out, considering it all worked before it could be a blocked nozzle. There are several other posibilities such as pump, coupling, p. cell, etc . First check if oil is at the pump. Stix.

 

[dr6348]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I've removed the bleed screw thingy and run the pump; oil flows OK, and after 3 or 4 runs, screwed the bleed screw home, when there was very little in the way of tiny bubbles. So I think oil is reaching the pump.
I took the whole motor/fan unit out and have removed the nozzle, cleaned it and replaced it. I'm pretty sure oil is getting through there OK. Do you suggest blowing it out with compressed air at the local garage?
The pump runs, there's a 'click', which is timed about when the unit usually fires up - but nothing more, and the lockout light comes on.
Could it be coincidence - has the ignition has failed?
Is the condenser the unit that would need replacing?
The boiler is only 3 years old, so I'd expect most components to be OK still.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[outinthestix]

Almost impossible to clean a nozzle. Get a new one with same markings on the side. Also run the burner, when locks out remove burner and see if oil on nozzle or in combustion chamber. If it's oily you've probably got no spark.
There are no Thermecon's round here, which burner have you got ?

 

[dr6348]

OK, I blew the burner nozzle through at my mate's garage; installed burner, carefully wiped clean. Ran - lockout of course - then checked: there is a tiny bit of oil around the nozzle. Should there be more than just a wipe of oil there? I'll see if I can get a new nozzle tomorrow.

Is there anything I can replace sparkwise that might help?

Thermecon boiler is GAH, and the burner says it's made by Eccoflam, Italy.

Thanks for all the help guys. Thankfully we have an immersion heater and an open fire to keep us warm(ish)!

Cheers,
Dave

 

[dr6348]

Here's another question. I have no idea if this is a condensing boiler or not! How can I tell?
There's a low level discharge pipe coming out of the wall, so if that's frozen, I can easily fix that!

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If it say's HE on the badge then probably condensing. There'll be a white plastic pipe coming from the bottom of the boiler leading outside to drain. This is the condensate drain, could well be frozen. As its been fitted since 2005 then it should be condensing anyway.

A copper pipe will be the pressure relief, (if fitted), shouldnt have any water in it under normal circumstances.

 

[outinthestix]

There is also a filter in the pump which should be cleaned. Pump is probably bfp 11 in which case 4 allen headed screws (1 at each corner of face plate) need undoing to reveal the filter. If bfp21 pump then 1 allen cap on top of pump needs removing to reveal filter.
If electrodes look clean and are not cracked and all filters are ok i would change nozzle but really you need to check pump pressure with a gauge to see if pump is working.
You can check for spark if you are confident by removing burner, pull lead out of solenoid(very important or you will get face full of oil or burnt) and fire the burner while looking in the blast tube. A strong spark should be seen between electrodes. If good spark switch off and replace everything. Then change nozzle. If this doesn't work the pump will need to be checked by a technician but in any case after nozzle change the burner should really be re commissioned by technician so why not get someone who will supply nozzle and check pump. Stix.

 

[dr6348]

Thanks again guys. I don't think it is a condensing boiler, as there's no white pipe (there is a grey one, but that is completely empty of anything).

I have cleaned the pump filter (bfp11), which was completely clean, re-bled and checked for ignition spark. The spark is fabulous (wish it were like that on my classic race bike!). I am about to go and get another nozzle. Fingers crossed. If I can find a technician to come out - and they are all pretty busy right now - I will.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Burnerman]

It could be a good idea to keep a new pump solenoid coil in stock.....
John

 

[spraggo]

We ran out of oil.

Help! It's getting very cold here!

Thanks in advance.
Dave

I've now bled the system and checked the KBB? button is in on the coil next to the filter. Still no joy and the boiler won't fire. Any suggestions?

I personally do not think you will achieve anything unless you check the oil pressure with al gauge. The only way to clean the nozzle is to unscrew the filter, then remove the swirl inside the nozzle with a screw driver, fill the nozzle with oil and press the oil down with your thumb to see if a stream of oil spurts from the nozzle, The slots in the swirl can be cleaned with a business card. If OK then re assemble making sure that the filter is not blocked, if not Ok get a new nozzle. Usefull tip if you are out in the sticks with no nozzles at hand

spraggo

 

[dr6348]

I've now run out of ideas and things I can do. New nozzle fitted and no joy, so I guess I'll have to wait for a professional.

Thanks for all the help; at least I know a lot more about my boiler than before!
Cheers,
Dave