Thermostatic electric shower low pressure display always on

[TryAgain1]

Identify the low pressure microswitch, it may be the one in your photo above, remove (with shower isolated) the wires from both terminals and you should get continuity across the terminals with the M.Meter set to resistance, Ohms, because the switch is or should be NC (normally closed), the one shown is a NO one.

You might be able to push the "switch" (shown above Honeywell on this one) in/out with something to see if the M.meter reading changes.

View attachment 422927

Is this micro switch ( https://www.showerspares.com/search/triton-microswitch-22012460/) electrically (electrical contacts) or mechanically (black push button top left?) controlled? Is the microswitch being put in the 'always on' position by the 2 brown wires being twisted?

 

[Johntheo5]

Is this micro switch ( https://www.showerspares.com/search/triton-microswitch-22012460/) electrically (electrical contacts) or mechanically (black push button top left?) controlled? Is the microswitch being put in the 'always on' position by the 2 brown wires being twisted?

Its mechanically operated by its push button which in turn is pushed by the (a) diaphragm when the shower is switched on and the pressure builds up, the same diaphragm will push the two (or only one, if Eco is selected) ) power microswitches up/on at the same time. The two wires being twisted together shouldn't cause the neon to illuminate. If that switch has only two terminals, you could remove one wire (after shower isolation) and then switch it back on and see does the neon stay off.
If, and it may be quite easy, after removing the terminal wires (shower isolated), remove that microswitch and press the button in/out and check the contacts with a multimeter. Also look for any details on the switch like shown on the one shown in my post #15.

 

[TryAgain1]

Its mechanically operated by its push button which in turn is pushed by the (a) diaphragm when the shower is switched on and the pressure builds up, the same diaphragm will push the two (or only one, if Eco is selected) ) power microswitches up/on at the same time. The two wires being twisted together shouldn't cause the neon to illuminate. If that switch has only two terminals, you could remove one wire (after shower isolation) and then switch it back on and see does the neon stay off.
If, and it may be quite easy, after removing the terminal wires (shower isolated), remove that microswitch and press the button in/out and check the contacts with a multimeter. Also look for any details on the switch like shown on the one shown in my post #15.

Attached is the microswitch that both Low Pressure brown wires connect into and both brown wires appear to be joined to the switch and to each other (no circuit breaks). Am not an electrician so didn't do a continuity check. Turned shower on again same issue Low Pressure light came up despite mains water being fine (not low pressure). Is the next step to get Triton on callout to replace the microswitch as I can't see what else is wrong? Or buy a multimeter and test? I assume microswitches can't be repaired?

 

[Johntheo5]

Can you write down the details from that switch and post them, I cannot read the details in the photo.

If you are not familiar with a M.meter then I wouldn't bother now but you can at least see if the switch is wired correctly by looking at the schematic. You should see two probably brown wires attached (together) to a terminal(s) on the solenoid valve coil (4), one of these wires should go to a terminal on the low pressure microswitch (9), the other should go from the other terminal on the microswitch (9) to the low pressure neon (9).

Also, before calling in Triton, remove both brown wires from the low pressure microswitch (9) and wrap a bit of insulation around the wire ends, if the neon now stays unlit with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it.

 

[TryAgain1]

Can you write down the details from that switch and post them, I cannot read the details in the photo.

If you are not familiar with a M.meter then I wouldn't bother now but you can at least see if the switch is wired correctly by looking at the schematic. You should see two probably brown wires attached (together) to a terminal(s) on the solenoid valve coil (4), one of these wires should go to a terminal on the low pressure microswitch (9), the other should go from the other terminal on the microswitch (9) to the low pressure neon (9).

Also, before calling in Triton, remove both brown wires from the low pressure microswitch (9) and wrap a bit of insulation around the wire ends, if the neon now stays unlit with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it.


View attachment 423455

The 2 brown wires in the Low Pressure micro switch are clamped on by an Open Type Terminal that is crimped onto each brown wire. Do I pry the brown wires off the terminal or can I pull the Terminal off the Micro switch L bar connector?

 

[Johntheo5]

Pry the wires off the terminal(s).

 

[TryAgain1]

Pry the wires off the terminal(s).

Pry the wires off the terminal(s).

Then wrap each brown wire in insulation tape then put shower front cover back on then turn shower on? If Low Pressure light comes on then microswitch is dead if light not on then what?

 

[Johntheo5]

You will/should have broken the circuit so the light should not come on under any circumstances, see what happens.

 

[TryAgain1]

You will/should have broken the circuit so the light should not come on under any circumstances, see what happens.

I don't think I can put the wires back on after prying them off (the clamp is very fragile and I'll probably damage the metal ). The microswitch has label G5T16 (line 1) then 16A 1/2 HP (line 2) so this microswitch: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22708511...573dd1&gclid=4969718ba63f1a53dc7a1b4eba573dd1. Is this the right microswitch?