Thermostatic electric shower low pressure display always on

I would use the switch as a base to lever up and off the terminal with a flat bladed screwdriver, it will certainly come off.
Check (with that one wire removed) that both heating elements are on by feeling the hot water temperature, if so, then almost certain to be a (the) faulty neon pressure switch, just renew it.
 
I would use the switch as a base to lever up and off the terminal with a flat bladed screwdriver, it will certainly come off.
Check (with that one wire removed) that both heating elements are on by feeling the hot water temperature, if so, then almost certain to be a (the) faulty neon pressure switch, just renew it.
So just remove the silver colored terminal (on right hand side) not both brown wires?
 
Just both brown wires. Remove enough to remove the switch....I keep asking how many wires are attached to that switch.
 
You have removed one?, check that both elements are on as suggested above, then remove the second wire by prising off the spade/terminal it's attached to, renew switch.
 
You have removed one?, check that both elements are on as suggested above, then remove the second wire by prising off the spade/terminal it's attached to, renew switch.
I removed both brown wires from the LP microswitch (pried up both spade/terminals) and covered both terminals with electrical tape then turned on the shower to max heat (2 heating elements) the shower got to max temperature. The LP switch did not illuminate at all.

So I followed your post 'remove both brown wires from the low pressure microswitch (9) and wrap a bit of insulation around the wire ends, if the neon now stays unlit with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it'

So does this mean I need to replace the microswitch? (post note photo attached)
 

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Yes, that's the next logical step. ( Should have said above "if the neon now stays unlit liting with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it')
 
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Yes, that's the next logical step. ( Should have said above "if the neon now stays unlit liting with the shower on, then almost 100% certain that the microswitch has failed OR the wrong type, ie, a NO one has been installed, hence the need to read off the details from it')
Bril thanks. To replace the microswitch it's just unscrewing the original from a plastic bracket then screwing in the replacement then attaching the 2 brown wires? Just 2 electrical connections and 1 mechanical (screw) connection?
 
Are you sure it matches the part number on the switch you have removed the wires from?? because that certainly doesn't look like a normally closed (NC) switch, the symbols and line diagram clearly IMO shows it to be the NO (normally open) switch used for switching in the heating elements when the water pressure rises. I would suggest removing the switch and take a few photos of it, you will have to ensure that the push button is positioned correctly on the replacement. Your post #24 shows this one (below) which closely matches the numbers on that switch except that this (replacement) switch has 2 terminals and can be wired as NC (normally closed) which you require (or NO for other purposes). As stated ensure that push button is correctly positioned in the switch before purchase. You could contact Triton directly and they might send you one, even free if the shower Neon has always behaved like this from day1?.

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Are you sure it matches the part number on the switch you have removed the wires from?? because that certainly doesn't look like a normally closed (NC) switch, the symbols and line diagram clearly IMO shows it to be the NO (normally open) switch used for switching in the heating elements when the water pressure rises. I would suggest removing the switch and take a few photos of it, you will have to ensure that the push button is positioned correctly on the replacement. Your post #24 shows this one (below) which closely matches the numbers on that switch except that this (replacement) switch has 2 terminals and can be wired as NC (normally closed) which you require (or NO for other purposes). As stated ensure that push button is correctly positioned in the switch before purchase. You could contact Triton directly and they might send you one, even free if the shower Neon has always behaved like this from day1?.

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I'll call Triton tech support tomorrow and confirm
 
That's definitely the way to go, it is possible that the switch is a NO one depending on where its positioned in relation to the pressure operated diaphragm, Triton will certainly know.
 

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