Thermosyphoning... how to stop it!

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Durham
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Hi guys n gals... Scenario is we have a wood burning stove linked to a thermal store. To keep the system simple it is designed to run using thermosyphoning to transfer the heat from the stove to the tank..... nice and straight forward....

However, when the stove is NOT lit and we use the immersion heater only, the heat from the thermal store is going BACK (reverse flow) down the 28mm pipe to the stove and dissipating into the room.

This is:-
a) robbbing heat from the store and
b) making the room uncomfortably hot and
c) WASTING MONEY!

Question:- How can I stop this happening when the stove is NOT lit?

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Heating a sludge bucket with an immersion heater has to be the most expensive, and biggest waste of money on the planet.

The wood burner most work by gravity circulation, stop that and it gets very, very, hot in the lounge.

There are ways to deal with the problem and your heating engineer should be able to change the system pipework around to prevent reverse circulation.
 
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There are ways to deal with the problem and your heating engineer should be able to change the system pipework around to prevent reverse circulation.

I know he should.... 10 months down the line I was expecting to be sat with my feet up in front of the stove, instead he is still here plumbing and replumbing, pumps here one day, all changed the next, stats moved from one pipe to another....

Fed up... :confused:
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So what is between the burner and the sludge bucket.

Can you do a sketch of the pipe connections.
 
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So what is between the burner and the sludge bucket.

Can you do a sketch of the pipe connections.

Nowt between burner 'n bucket except loads of 90 deg bends! Same on the return. Going to measure up all distances and rises etc tonight and post (will even attempt a diagram!!)
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Yes, it is an ACV SLME 300 - the Multi energy one, with solar coil etc...

Stove goes in top left and comes out bottom left.

Oil boiler goes in RHS above solar and comes out RHS below solar coil.
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The good news is, it is not a thermal store (sludge bucket).

It is a Calorifier (tank in tank) perhaps the best designed unvented cylinder ever.

The bad news is don't let anyone near it that isn't familiar with calorifiers.
 
Google for a Dunseley ( Dursely :?: ) Isolator...metal box with loads of tapping for connecting gravity/oil wood etc. :idea:
 
The good news is, it is not a thermal store (sludge bucket).

It is a Calorifier (tank in tank) perhaps the best designed unvented cylinder ever.

The bad news is don't let anyone near it that isn't familiar with calorifiers.

My good news is I'm pleased it is
....perhaps the best designed unvented cylinder ever.
(with no link to any lager company!)

My Bad, Bad, Terrible news is the person working on it, trying to get it to work since November last year, despite his protests he has installed "loads of them", doesn't appear to have a clue.... :(
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Google for a Dunseley ( Dursely :?: ) Isolator...metal box with loads of tapping for connecting gravity/oil wood etc. :idea:

Dunsley... yes... know about them. opted for a thermal store/sludge bucket/heat bank/calorifier call it what you will.... as opposed to one of those.

Several type of neutralizers available and it's basically a very small tank with tappings.... same as a thermal store/sludge bucket/heat bank/calorifier but without the storage capacity.

Is my theory correct there as I am no plumber/heating engineer.?
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Just don't let him drain the secondary water, assuming he knows how, because the inner tank will collapse, unless you drain the primary out first.

The problem your plumber is having is not an easy one to solve, so don't be too hard on him.
 
Just don't let him drain the secondary water, assuming he knows how, because the inner tank will collapse, unless you drain the primary out first.

Yes I know, It is all over the installation manuals, highlighted in bold..... I don't think he has looked at the manuals yet... I wonder if thats why we can only get one shower and the washing up done and then there is no hot water.. :(

How can you tell if the inner tank has collapsed?

The problem your plumber is having is not an easy one to solve, so don't be too hard on him.

How long do we give him to solve the problem? Is 12 months unreasonable? He is asking me to take days off work to show him how to resolve the problems... I have already rewired the hi/lo stats to work correctly, and re-installed the "air valve" on the wood stove so it DOESN'T open wider when it overfires... and installled the correct sized soakaway for the oil boiler condensate that was left running down the brickwork outside etc etc but no.... I won't give him a hard time.... ;)
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