Thermosyphoning... how to stop it!

The immersion heater is only a back-up, it will never keep up with or supply a full load.

The normal way to Collapse the inner tank is to fill the heating before the domestic (secondary tank) we used to fill the middle tank with a hose pipe, as soon as it was in position, after a couple of agency guys wrecked 3 @ £5k a time, and after I had made the point several times about not filling them.

You would have nasty coloured water if it had.
 
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Here are the relative pipe runs to and from the stove. All drawn to scale..
H = horzontal
V = vertical


Pipework on flow from stove H450 - 90deg - H1100 - 135deg – H200 – 90deg – Vup800 – 90deg – H200 – 90deg – Vuo100 – 90deg H100 and into Tank
That is a vertical 900 mm rise from the outlet on the stove to the inlet on the tank and a total horizontal run of 1850mm. TOTAL FLOW = 2750mm of 28mm pipe

The return out of the Tank is 1050mm below the inlet and is 90deg – H200 – 90deg – H150 – 90deg – Vdown400 – 90deg – H900 – 90deg – H100 – 90deg – H400 – 90deg H450 and into the inlet (return) on the stove.
That is a vertical fall of 400mm and a horizontal run of 2200mm. TOTAL RETURN = 2600mm of 28mm pipe

Tank is 1550 tall, inlet 250 from top, immersion 800 below inlet, outlet is 250 below immersion and bottom of tank is 250 below outlet.

Diagram is at
Image is to scale in terms of pipe lengths and sizes, and vertical separations....
 
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True scale 3D image showng piping layout. Green "plates" are 250mm apart to show relative levels of everything.

Note immersion on same side of tank as inlet/outlet.


Added later... actual tank is about 100mm shorter than shown, that height shown allows for "tails" for hot water on top.
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He is asking me to take days off work to show him how to resolve the problems...

Plumber asking his customer to take days off work to resolve problems with the system. :eek:

Were the pipe connection issues ever sorted out as per ACV's recommendations?
 
The simplest way would be to fit a flapper check valve (non sprung loaded) in the vertical flow pipe as high as possible.

You don't show any expansion or heat sinks for the wood burner, what does the manufacturers instruction say about that.
 
Were the pipe connection issues ever sorted out as per ACV's recommendations?

Nope, same plumber, same system..... :(

But... he has a deadline now... Do you think 12 months is unreasonable to resolve a problem? :confused:
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The simplest way would be to fit a flapper check valve (non sprung loaded) in the vertical flow pipe as high as possible.

You don't show any expansion or heat sinks for the wood burner, what does the manufacturers instruction say about that.

Wouldn't a flap valve hinder the gravity circulation that is supposed to go the correct way round the system, we struggle to get the heat the stove is capable of creating into the store as it is...

F&E tanks, hot water feeds and rad pipes omitted for clarity.. ;)
Besides it took me long enough to model that up in 3D! LOL
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I would disregard Doitall's dangerous advice regarding a non return valve.

First priority is to ensure the unit is installed as per MI's.
 
I would disregard Doitall's dangerous advice regarding a non return valve.

First priority is to ensure the unit is installed as per MI's.

Strangely enough it isn't dangerous, if he fits the right type.

It would be better if we had all the information, instead of leaving bits off, that are important.

If you follow that link it will stop the gravity circulation as it suggest.

BOTH WAYS
 
I would disregard Doitall's dangerous advice regarding a non return valve.

First priority is to ensure the unit is installed as per MI's.

The first priority is the wood burner, not the cylinder.
 
A lot of the information is all there already.
His system was installed incorretly by a HETAS registered installer and is incapable of correcting his errors.
This is where the term "qualified" becomes a joke.
 

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