The roof tiles are now on. I’m guessing I can’t do this now?
What would be the next best step in this case?
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This purlin is supported like this. Any solutions to make it more secure?
- Thread starter stolonsi
- Start date
What would be the next best step in this case?
But would it be harder to get under with the weight of the roof on the purlin?. I guess I would need to jack the purlin up slightly to slide the iron in. Really hoping I don’t have to get the tiles off again.
I fear that you would do damage below rather than jack up the purlin. I cannot understand why this was not addressed when you had no roof and no weight.
Anyway could the OP sister a beam and put that in the wall - on his side of the double thickness wall. Also a good rake out and repoint would strengthen the wall --- would it ?
Unfortunately I was away dealing with a crisis. The silly roofers said they put it back to how it was originally constructed and said it was fine for 90 years so it’ll be fine. I’ve had so much back and forth with them.
I just want to rectify the problem now and I don’t really want those guys anywhere near my roof anyway as they could just end up making things even worse.
Understood.
Sistering then ?
It cannot possibly have been built that way, so bowing shortening the length, or shrinkage, is the only explanation. The OP hasn't mentioned the roof bowing, and so...
OP,
The mention of roof tiles in your post #16 seems to be a first mention of the roof previously being off - why was the roof cover off?
1. A double brick wall makes a big difference for making the party wall safe for any purlin work.
2. After grinding out all the pointing to, say, a 30mm depth then re-point in a 3:1 sand & cement mix.
3. Then carefully open up pockets in the brickwork - "holes" or pockets one brick approx 4" deep.
4. Then use bolt-ons. See how rot damaged short ground floor joists are extended into wall pockets.
5. Use one length of timber to extend the purlin, and sister bolt-on timbers either side of the purlin & the extension piece. All three bolt-on pieces then sit in the hole or pocket.
6. Once in the pocket you can, if needed, wedge up the purlin to meet the rafters.
7. During this work the other end of the purlin should be firmly fixed on the other party wall - why not post a pic of the other end of the purlin?
The mention of roof tiles in your post #16 seems to be a first mention of the roof previously being off - why was the roof cover off?
1. A double brick wall makes a big difference for making the party wall safe for any purlin work.
2. After grinding out all the pointing to, say, a 30mm depth then re-point in a 3:1 sand & cement mix.
3. Then carefully open up pockets in the brickwork - "holes" or pockets one brick approx 4" deep.
4. Then use bolt-ons. See how rot damaged short ground floor joists are extended into wall pockets.
5. Use one length of timber to extend the purlin, and sister bolt-on timbers either side of the purlin & the extension piece. All three bolt-on pieces then sit in the hole or pocket.
6. Once in the pocket you can, if needed, wedge up the purlin to meet the rafters.
7. During this work the other end of the purlin should be firmly fixed on the other party wall - why not post a pic of the other end of the purlin?
He said there were previously old crumbling bricks there (old corbel ) . That is no way shrinkage.
It's quite likely that the original masonry corbelled out further than it is now.
Short length of angle iron - sorted. I'd still supplement that corbel brick with a timber prop though.
It's not that difficult to prop retrospectively, more of a faff. You could prop the ceiling below, with a squat board and a pair of Acrows. Then drop another squat board onto the propped ceiling and use a short Acrow to prop the purlin end.
Acros, and a few timbers would do that...
Add a series of Acros from the ground up, with planks top and bottom of each, at each floor, all the up to under that purlin. The final one at the top, would jack the purlin up, enough to allow you to chop the wall out, to accept that angle iron. You could stitch drill the hole for the iron, and no need to disturb the tiles.
You might need to have made some sort of V bracket base, for the purlin to sit firmly on top of the acro.
I would also suggest, something be done to support it, as a matter of extreme urgency - that single brick could shatter under the load, at any moment.
Supported as per noseall suggestion
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