To DIYers planning a rewire

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Just a post to thank all contributors (past and present) to this forum. I have just completed a full rewire (to 17th edn) of a cottage I own. Along with some building work this has all been done under the auspices of the local building control and I have received all the requisite certification etc. Initial responses from the forum were of the "if you have to ask, you can't do it" kind, which to my mind negates having a forum such as this in the first place! However, I read through all past postings and found the information I needed.

If any amateur is contemplating doing such a thing may I just list things I wish I had known when I set out;

1 The building control fee for "doing it yourself" approval is fantastic value. Be glad to pay it - you get two very expensive inspections for about £100!!

2. The business of having to have a first fix inspection was something of a pest but that was with a completely empty house which I had basically gutted and with which there was no particular time constraint. If you're living (with family?!) in the house then I can't see how it could be done other than by paying for multiple first fix inspections and that would really get expensive. Think hard about that first.

3. I got involved with a complete rewire because I wanted to move the supply head and meter 3 feet so that I could put a velux in. Local building control said that counted as a rewire and so the whole installation had to come up to scratch. As an amateur I wasn't in a position to argue the point. Even perfectly sound wire runs which didn't comply with "safe areas" etc had to go. In this way a seemingly non-intrusive meter move snowballed into every wall and floor being touched in some way.

4. Use the best quality stuff available and stick to common practice and all the figures (which you don't have to calculate or supply) will fall into place at the final inspection. For instance, there are rules and good practice guides buried around this forum about the maximum area served by a rfc etc.

5. The bit I feared most was preparing the new site for the supply fuses and meter. Reading around, it seemed that there were no rules about specifications etc, only existing practice and this seemed to vary from one DNO to another. In the end I did everything that I could think of so that when the DNO's contractor came to inspect the job for a final quote he said " is that all you want doing?! I can do that for you now!" and I was finally billed a fraction of the expected amount

6. I found that everyone was only too willing to help. At the first fix inspection I was able to sort out what the lecky wanted to see in the way of MEBC etc.

Thanks again expert contributors I couldn't have done it without some of you, but please don't come to this forum if all you're going to say is ... well, you know. :)

HS
 
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well done anyway
But how did you do it to the 17th so fast, I thought the book has only been out less than 5 weeks
 
The electrical contractor who did the testing told me that I could "work forward" to the inception of the 17th edn. I suppose he knew my timescale and could see that I would arrive just in time so to speak and also perhaps, the house was uninhabited. This was very handy with bathroom bonding of course - no claggy clamps on my nice designer radiators. As I said, I only came across helpful people.
 
Just for curiositys sake, what RCD arrangements did you use in your CU?
 
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...if that's the case, they must have been Crabtree.... :LOL:

PS, harveysmith, that's a great achievement. It's nice to read a success story.
 
Indeed.

Shame it was founded on complete and utter b*ll*cks from Building Control..... :rolleyes:
 
RF Lighting (&John D):

A pleasure to speak to you directly. It is work of the quality you have posted tonight (picture of CU) that I have aspired to achieve, (although I would have been told to trim the busbars)

I didn't use RCBO's which certainly would have been one of the more expensive solutions. There are four mcbs on the rcd split, 3x32A for 3 rfc's and a 6A for the 12v selv lighting in the bathroom (which is the only electrical feed in there). I put a 12v push button battery luminaire accessible from the shower (combi boiler) in case of an awkward trip by the rcd. The rcd setup satisfied the contractor which more than satisfied me.

The title of my posting was quite specific. I was speaking to DIYers and as such my reference to "best quality stuff" was within that context. I must confess that, having read through hundreds of postings I was happy buy only MK products. Their reputation seemed unassailable. I am not now too sure. The CU seemed rather flimsy and took an awful lot of alligning to get the cover over the mcb's etc. Also, four out of thirty double 13A sockets had terminal screws which wouldn't unscrew straight out of the box. Some of the rocker switches seem a bit iffy too but who am I to comment?!


MG
 
ban all sheds:

If you mean about the rewire I am in complete agreement otherwise please explain.


MG
 
Initial responses from the forum were of the "if you have to ask, you can't do it" kind, which to my mind negates having a forum such as this in the first place!
I looked back at your previous posts, and I couldn't find any responses like that. One person said "if you are not competent to do the work, then you will need to get someone in who is", which seems reasonable and unarguable. Did you use any other fora?

However, I read through all past postings and found the information I needed.
Excellent - it's always good to see a fellow DIY-er taking that trouble.

But now that you have, I'd like to ask you three questions:

1) Did you learn, or find out, anything that you didn't just not know, but which you didn't realise you didn't know, i.e. things you had no idea existed?

2) If yes, do you think you could successfully have done a rewire without that knowledge on the back of asking whatever questions happened to occur to you as you went along?

3) Do you think that if someone asks a question such as "I'm building an extension and I need to put the wiring in, what size should I use?" that they really do know everything they need to know except that, or do you think that a question like that indicates that they know nowhere near enough?
 
ban all sheds:

If you mean about the rewire I am in complete agreement otherwise please explain.


MG
That's exactly what I meant:

"I wanted to move the supply head and meter 3 feet so that I could put a velux in. Local building control said that counted as a rewire and so the whole installation had to come up to scratch."
 
Also, four out of thirty double 13A sockets had terminal screws which wouldn't unscrew straight out of the box.
I had an MK light switch last year where one of the screws was in so tight it sheared off when I tried to loosen it.... :rolleyes:
 
They were definately faulty, mk sockets and switches COME with the screws already backed out, this was a result of there research on what people wanted, sometimes you have to push them in though to get them started.
 
I got involved with a complete rewire because I wanted to move the supply head and meter 3 feet so that I could put a velux in. Local building control said that counted as a rewire and so the whole installation had to come up to scratch. As an amateur I wasn't in a position to argue the point. Even perfectly sound wire runs which didn't comply with "safe areas" etc had to go. In this way a seemingly non-intrusive meter move snowballed into every wall and floor being touched in some way.

Sorry I may have read this wrong and well done on your rewire etc but...

The way I have read the above is that all you wanted was the meter and cutout moving a few feet so you could fit a window.

Is that right?

And you had to do a full rewire? :eek:
 
They were definately faulty, mk sockets and switches COME with the screws already backed out, this was a result of there research on what people wanted, sometimes you have to push them in though to get them started.
Now you mention it, maybe it was backed out so much that it sheared when I tried to tighten it - I can't be sure.

I am sure of 2 things though:

1) I did not turn it the wrong way.

2) It did shear.
 

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