To twist or not to twist?

[GaryMo]

Straight without a bootlace ferrule (assuming 10mm conductors into a DP isolator as per the original question).
I personally only use bootlace ferrules with tri-rated cable when building or working within control panels / equipment.

 

[Softus]

All very interesting replies - thanks to everyone for taking the trouble.

I'm left unsure about the technical merits of twisting or not, although intuitively I wouldn't tin the ends.

This all arose because recently, when I was replacing a 45A shower isolator (yet another in an estate full of cheap sh*tty ones that the builder used), I suddenly wondered why I was gently twisting the splayed ends of the 10mm conductors.

When the ends are left straight, what seems to happen is that the screw end will make excellent contact with the strands directly underneath it, but some of the strands splay to each side, and are making little or no contact with either the screw or the barrel. My assertion is that this is A Bad Thing.

When the ends are twisted, but not tightly, the splaying is fully or nearly eliminated, which surely must be A Good Thing.

Are there any switch brands that use the superior type of screw and barrel?

 

[RF Lighting]

My personal favorite type of shower pull switch is crabtree. They are easier to make off, and have angled screws to slightly pull the conductor into the terminal. The screw also fills the whole terminal, so no strands get missed.

 

[Softus]

In that case, I'll stock and buy no switches other than Crabtree ones.

Thanks RF.

 

[RF Lighting]

You might want to just buy 1 and see what you think first of all

 

[dingbat]

I also only use the Crabtree 50A shower pull switches. (Also available under the Click brand)