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[JayKayG]

Hi, I’m hoping someone here might be able to help.
We moved into a house a couple of years ago which had the above boiler. It’s been a nuisance ever since we moved in, cutting out.
We had it serviced, the chap who came out couldn’t solve why it kept cutting out.
I learned on here about the photocell, and we have kept it going for a year by angling the photocell slightly upwards, and cleaning it every time the boiler cuts out.
However, today - bank holiday obviously - that’s not solving the problem. It isn’t actually firing up, when it gets to the point where it would normally fire up, it cuts out instead, not firing at all. I can smell fuel, I hear the usual click which is usually then followed by ignition but now........cuts out.
Any other things we could try - it’s pretty cold up here at 1200ft!

 

[oilhead]

Which burner do you have fitted?
These beasts are the spawn of the devil.
If Monoflame burner, remove the diffuser plate from behind the nozzle. Take an angle grinder to the baffles and reduce them by about 3/8" to improve gas flow. You then have a chance of getting clean efficient combustion. You may find that the burner has been re-igniting regularly, which can goose the ignition transformer, or you may find the solenoid coil has failed. You may also find that theboiler is so clogged up that it cannot breathe.

 

[oilboffin]

Never did like em.Bob

 

[JayKayG]

Thanks Oilhead. It has only one jet, if that’s what make it a mono flame burner. I’m about to take it apart and see what I can do about cleaning it up and improving the air, but if it’s an electrical issue, that’s beyond me.

I think the time has come to replace it with a Grant - the one I had in the last house caused me no bother at all. It would be so good to wake up in the morning and not wonder if the heating has come on.....living in the one room with the wood burner is fine(ish), but boiling the kettle to wash in the basin in an unheated bathroom is not!

 

[oilhead]

Monoflame is the make of burner. See if cleaning it up helps. Also, disconnect the solenoid coil lead and try starting it with the burner out. You should see a spark. If not, then suspect the transformer or possibly the photocell, maybe control box.

 

[JayKayG]

Got an engineer out, turned out to be the electrode, he replaced that and the nozzle, it ran for 20 mins after he left, and now won’t again. It’s firing, but then cuts out.
Going to have to find the baffles and cut them it seems. So fed up of being cold, living in one room, and having no hot water.

 

[JayKayG]

So - found the baffles, cleaned off all the rust, crud etc that was blocking the gaps, put them back this time, as engineer coming back on his way home - concerned he’ll give me grief for messing. Anyway, cleaning them hasn’t helped, just I am now filthy and liberal application of swarfega and a nail brush hasn’t shifted it - I only ever think of gloves when it’s too late.

One thing that has me baffled (groan) though — the bottom baffle has ridges on, which run horizontally, not front to back, whereas the castellations on the next ones are at the front and back. So how does the air get to them , why don’t the first set of ridges run front to back?

They were also not as in the diagram of the boiler, big single square plates, 6 of them, not four split plates.

 

[oilboffin]

The different models had a variety of baffles could be theyre in wrong as a rule the bottom baffle fits to the far wall of the chamber with a gap to the front,then the next one with a gap at the back and so on till they're all in simples.Bob

 

[JayKayG]

That’s how I found them and put them back, so that’s reassuring, thank you.

The engineer has got it working again, said he’d ‘re-arranged things in the burner so that the photocell had a better view of the flame’. Fingers crossed, it seems to have done the trick.

 

[oilboffin]

I'll tell you what's happened someone had turned the electrodes to the top instead of the side
and they were blocking the line of sight for the photocell.Bob