Trianco Oil Boiler (Ecoflam Minor 4 burner)

28 Nov 2010
Reaction score
United Kingdom
Hi All

Just wondered whether anyone has expereinced this problem?

Our Trianco Eurostar outside boiler started to lock out on its first morning start, although not every morning. Once the santronic lock out was reset it fired up and ran fine all day. To get by I added an early morning (4am) additional timer slot so it was not switched off for as long, which helped.

However this morning with an outside temperature of -5 it locked out and would not start at all, just timing out on each reset I also spotted a damp patch of oil under the burner. Motor and fan run up each time and some ignition is heard before lock out.

What seems to be happening is the nozzle is dripping oil into the burner, and I suspect overfueling so the photo cell doesn't sees a clean burn when starting up.

I am hoping a new pump c/w solenoid valve will cure the fault?

I have also checked:
All oil filters and oil lines, (oil lines replaced as originally thought leak causing drain back).

Danfoss pump, filter clean and turns freely
Cleaned and tested photocell
Adjusted electrodes checked spark.
Replaced nozzle (with one changed last service so should be ok)

One thing that does puzzle me is that I tried to fool the photcell by holding it on a torch, but the burner still locks out. Perhaps the photo cell needs more intense light? (I was hoping to get the burner to burn off the excess fuel and run for a while so we could have some heat)

Any thoughts?
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Your leakage of oil could indeed be the pump seals as you suggest, but I'd like to see what pressure the burner was running at, as a leaking pump - though undesirable, should still allow the burner to start.
The pump needs to be set at 12 bar. Danfoss BFP 11 R I think?
These are also most prone to coil failure on top of the pump.
Was the burner starting to thump on start up?
Any new pump will have to have its pressure set, by the way.
For the photocell, you can fool it by having it completely dark when starting the burner up, and then allowing it to see light which should keep the thing running.
John :)
Another Trianco with starting problems!! Scan the past posts to see the history.
What is happening is that the baffles are restricting the passage of flue gases through the boiler. This makes the burner head very dirty and obscures the photocell. Often in an attempt to overcome this, burners are set up too lean, and when the air charge is heavier, it makes it even leaner, producing a blue flame which the photo cell will not recognise.
Take an angle grinder to the baffles, and open up the slots to twice the present size, then set up closer to the factory settings. You will need a pressure gauge for the oil pump, and a flue ga analyser. Alternatively, you can use a smoke pump to get as rich a mixture without smoke.
Thanks Burnerman

Yes - I did have a thump or two on startup - if you mean the excess fuel detonating?

I would think that the pump is delivering pressure ok, but suspect the solenoid valve is allowing fuel through by gravity when the boiler is off, which would explain the puddle and the fan casing containing fuel.

BTW have ordered an oil pressure gauge as well ......

If the Trianco boilers are sensitive when starting any over fuel would be a problem?

Thanks for the photocell tip - guess the controller is clever and needs the correct sequence?

Thanks oilhead - Although a grinder seems a bit excessive as the Trianco has worked fine for 9 years. Will leave that one until I have eliminated the fuel leak!
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Oilheads comments are indeed words of wisdom.....loads of Trianco's have baffle problems, but there again, some don't. Either way, they should all be well cleaned every year.
Regarding the oil leak - if its below the pump itself, then the seals are on the way out, but if its lying around in the combustion area then the oil could well be seeping from the nozzle - or it could be dripping from the nozzle and running down inside the burner.
Certainly, thumps upon start up can be caused by excess oil lying around - but blocked baffles can cause this too.
Anyway - sort the oil leak first, and set the pump pressure. You'll need someone to set the CO2 up too - usually thats about 11%. A flue gas analyser is needed for this, and don't touch the air door setting!
Hope this helps!
John :)

Leak is definitely from the nozzle - the exterior of the pump and connections are dry. Guess gravity is pushing it through as tank oil level is higher.

I will clean the baffles, have also ordered some glass rope as the baffle door gasket is perished. I think this would be better than fire cement?

I Don't think you can get the original Tranco spares any more?

P.S. I do have a grinder :p :p :p
Look at for some bits like baffles, although the burner bits can be had, no worries.
You can use new glass rope with some fireclay cement if you choose - I use both, depending on the application - so long as the joint is air tight.
A smoke bomb test reveals all!
John :)
John - were on my list to ring tommorrow

Have you used them?
Leak is definitely from the nozzle - the exterior of the pump and connections are dry. Guess gravity is pushing it through as tank oil level is higher.

To have this happen would indicate the solenoid stem stuck open as unless your tank is as high as your house gravity wouldn't be enough.
John - were on my list to ring tommorrow

Have you used them?

Yep, they have a good catalogue with pics, helpful staff and quick delivery, often next day. APART FROM UP 'ERE WITH 14" OF BLOODY SNOW! IT'S LIKE LIVING LIKE AN ESKIMO :p
John :)
Hi again

Just to advise that the new pump has fixed my boiler. No leak and no problems with first start up in the morning. Probably could have go away with a new solenoid valve but did not want to chance it when the weather is so cold.

:D :D :D :D :D

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