Hi all, I have the above boiler its a 20/25, this morning the flame out light was on, after resetting it would run for a short time and then flame out again. In the past this was due to dirt and dust accumulating around the jet so I cleaned the exterior and replaced. No change, took the jet assembly apart and thoroughly cleaned with an air line and reassembled, much the same but can just about get it to stay lit with adjustment (seems very sensitive) of the air slot but the flame does not sound stable. Will run more stable if set rich but this results in soot being produced, Anyone any ideas.
Trianco refyre flame out and running rough
- Thread starter timbo2
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First thing is a new nozzle. You probably made it worse trying to clean it .
Which burner is it?
It could be a several different problems.
Which burner is it?
It could be a several different problems.
If the burner has been unhappy for a while, there's a good chance that the boiler baffles are sooted up and the airflow is restricted.
Its a good idea to clean them up with a wire brush if you are confident enough, and then ideally its an oil pump pressure test, followed by a smoke test and then a flue gas analysis.
John
Its a good idea to clean them up with a wire brush if you are confident enough, and then ideally its an oil pump pressure test, followed by a smoke test and then a flue gas analysis.
John
H
holty
sooted chimney/flue/pump/ burner/fuel. could be a number of things. plus you cant guess at getting the flame right. without the necessary equipment.
If it is a Selectos D.42 and you have not carefully marked the position of the flame ring and the nozzle line adjustment in the draught tube, the burner is probably well out of adjustment the distance from the front of the Nozzle to the flame -ring (measured at the internal oriface) should be approx 10 - 12mm, the flame ring should protude approx 4-6mm in front of the blast tube when assembled (thsi is adjusted with the Locking nuts on the left hand side of the blue plasic viewing disc.
if these adjustments are correct and the burner is "lumpy" move the nozzle line a tad further forward you will hear the flame suddenly burn smoothly. However if your burner is a D42 "T**" ignore the foregoing
if these adjustments are correct and the burner is "lumpy" move the nozzle line a tad further forward you will hear the flame suddenly burn smoothly. However if your burner is a D42 "T**" ignore the foregoing
Hi Boilerman2. Just wondering where you got your figures from for the selectos D42 burner.
I've got 0 to 1.6mm for flame ring protruding beyond blast tube.
And 6mm for nozzle face to bottom face of flame ring.
I've got these from the installation instructions for a thorn janitor ODY3
I've got 0 to 1.6mm for flame ring protruding beyond blast tube.
And 6mm for nozzle face to bottom face of flame ring.
I've got these from the installation instructions for a thorn janitor ODY3
The D11 is a difficult burner to work on - unless very competent it would be a good idea to get an experienced Oil Engineer ot have a look.
My figures regarding D42 are from my own notes the D42 is a highly adaptive burner and there is much trial and error in getting the best results, what works well on an ODY3, may not work on A Centrajet or a Heatmaster my notes are generalised and are a "starting point" only
My figures regarding D42 are from my own notes the D42 is a highly adaptive burner and there is much trial and error in getting the best results, what works well on an ODY3, may not work on A Centrajet or a Heatmaster my notes are generalised and are a "starting point" only
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