Trueing stud wall

[iwaters]

I need to replace a stud wall in a shower cubicle. The current one is made out of 2 x 2 held toegther with dry wall nails and is a pile of crap.

I am fixing tile backer boards to it so it needs to be strong.

I want to make sure the new wall (and the existing two) are as flat and level as I can to make tiling them easier.

Three questions. Firstly I have bought the 2 x 4 from the timber yard. I selected the staightest ones I could fnd but a couple still have a sligth crown to them. The crown is supposed to face inwards isn't it?

Second. Whane I am installing the backer boards how do I adjust them if they are out of true? Do I back off the screws a bit or shim between the timber and board?

Lastly the roof joists run in line with the wall. Do I need to get into the loft and noggins to screw the head plate into?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You should have got planed stud timbers 3X2s would have been good enough.
Not sure what you mean by the crown should face the inside, your stud work should be flat both sides.

Making your stud work true, will require the use of a tape measure, spirit level and pencil.
If your stud work has been erected correctly, there will be no need to adjust your backer boards, any areas that are slightly out of level can be helped back when tiling.
If you do not have a good fixing point for your head plate, you will indeed be best advised to fit noggins between joists

 

[Blagard]

Second. Whane I am installing the backer boards how do I adjust them if they are out of true? Do I back off the screws a bit or shim between the timber and board?

I'm hoping you have picked up the clues from PrenticeBoyofDerry post. While a bit of bow in the direction of the wall itself is OK, bow in the face of the wall is not acceptable. This should be flat and vertical from the start.

It would be better to get some new stud that is straight on the wall face sides.

Noggins in the loft - Yes

If you carefully fit the head member first you can plumb down from it to fit the soleplate. That way, getting it plumb and free of twist is easy.

It sounds like you either eyed up the wrong side of the timber at the merchant or they don't sell half decent timber!

Just to be sure, you do know that with either a 3 x 2 or a 4 x 2 it is the 2" face that forms the board fixing face, so the wall has a core either 3" or 4" thick?

 

[RedHerring2]

Judicious selection of your timber for various uses will help.
For instance, select the the straightest and truest timber for your verticals, using up any twisted or bent timber for your noggins.
If necessary you can untwist timber slightly when fixing. Fix one end, apply a decent size clamp near the other end and apply force to untwist, then fix that end.
Seriously bent noggins can be improved with an electric plane afterwards, if necessary.

 

[iwaters]

Thanks for the replies. The boards are straight, some in the yard where shaped like a bannana and I rejected those. A couple are not quite dead straight. I have a planer attachement for the Trinon work centre, should I run them through that to competely straighten them

Whenever I watch Holmes on Home and they are building studs walls he always goes on about checking for the crown in the timber and marking it so it goes on the right way. I wondered what exactly he mean't by that. I've also seen them checking the trueness of PB when putting that on, but from what you are saying I should focus on getting the timber true and the boards will follow suit.

 

[Blagard]

Whenever I watch Holmes on Home and they are building studs walls he always goes on about checking for the crown in the timber and marking it so it goes on the right way. I wondered what exactly he mean't by that. I've also seen them checking the trueness of PB when putting that on, but from what you are saying I should focus on getting the timber true and the boards will follow suit.

Crowning is an american term, the equivalent of bowing in the UK.
So, for instance, when using timber in floors or rafters you would place the timber with it bowing or crowning upwards on the basis it will settle down a bit when loaded.

If you have studs that bow only a little, then I believe the practice is to alternate the crown or bow so they do not all go the same way.

For studs though, you correctly understand that you need to be particularly picky about using straight ones or those that only bow or crown a little in the line of the wall.

 

[noseall]

When that timber ultimately 'acclimatizes' to the surroundings it will do as it pleases as it settles, taking the tile backer with it.

Just make sure that the timber cuts are all snug, that you have the correct size screws and spacings and that you seal all joints with a flexible sealant.

Building robustly is better than building anally.

 

[Richard C]

some in the yard where shaped like a bannana

There’s your problem; never buy timber you intend using for studs from an open yard, it’ll be all over the place for months while it dries out. If you build with it, you will get all sorts of problems with loose fitting joints, bowing & loose PB & “popping” fixings in the future. If the timber has a high moisture content you must let it dry out, no amount of planning will stabilise it before then.

 

[geraint]

some in the yard where shaped like a bannana

There’s your problem; never buy timber you intend using for studs from an open yard, it’ll be all over the place for months while it dries out. If you build with it, you will get all sorts of problems with loose fitting joints, bowing & loose PB & “popping” fixings in the future. If the timber has a high moisture content you must let it dry out, no amount of planning will stabilise it before then.

So where would you buy it from....

 

[^woody^]

You really need kiln dried, or better still CLS for straightness and easier studwork

 

[iwaters]

Yard was more of a figure of speech.

It was in a building, not out in the open. It is kiln dried so hopefully should be stable. Given the amount of splinters I got getting it in and out of the car though I wish I hae bought CLS.

 

[geraint]

You really need kiln dried, or better still CLS for straightness and easier studwork

For straightness..... Now that is a laugh....

 

[^woody^]

You really need kiln dried, or better still CLS for straightness and easier studwork

For straightness..... Now that is a laugh....

What are you on about. They all come from straight growing pine trees, just like telegraph poles ... and you don't see any bent ones of those do you?

 

[Richard C]

Geriatrics here, must be bed time already

 

[darrington]

some in the yard where shaped like a bannana

There’s your problem; never buy timber you intend using for studs from an open yard, it’ll be all over the place for months while it dries out. If you build with it, you will get all sorts of problems with loose fitting joints, bowing & loose PB & “popping” fixings in the future. If the timber has a high moisture content you must let it dry out, no amount of planning will stabilise it before then.

So where would you buy it from....

Try the plumber's.