TV feature wall - TV DOES NOT FIT!!

4 Nov 2020
Reaction score
United Kingdom
Hi All,

Took on my latest DIY project to build a TV featurewall, but unfortunately due to not allowing any allowance for errors in my measurements it seems the TV won't fit into the opening. On one side it's got enough of an opening, but the other side is too small - by about 0.7cm...

My question is what would be the best way to rectify it? It's all plasterboard, so I was thinking of using a Stanley knife to cut off the excesss from the top left and then use something to smooth it out? Do you think it will work?

I've attached photos as well as one before I plastered it.



  • 20220313_213636.jpg
    157.6 KB · Views: 615
  • 20220313_213646.jpg
    142.3 KB · Views: 552
  • 20220313_213653.jpg
    134 KB · Views: 540
  • 20220313_213658.jpg
    149.6 KB · Views: 524
  • 20220313_213704.jpg
    129.1 KB · Views: 546
  • SmartSelect_20220313-214420_Gallery.jpg
    209.6 KB · Views: 575
Sponsored Links
Didn’t you keep measuring as you built it?
I presume that you know that the next TV will not fit?
Ventilation could be an issue.

depending on your construction methods you could use hand tools.
A plunge saw would be a bit messy but extraction and dust sheets with a vacuum would allow good resizing options.
Congratulations, that's a worthy DIY disaster, not like some of the soppy stuff on here!

Unfortunately, because of the metal corner beading you'll need to hack of a fair bit of plaster, you may need to adjust the studwork as well - just have to bite the bullet and crack on.
Sponsored Links
Oof, bummer, 7mm is quite the error, as cdbe says you'll have to adjust it properly.

And bear in mind Tiger's comments, when this TV finally goes pop the next one won't fit.

What's the slot underneath for btw?
Anyone know what the planing allowance is for a TV? :cautious: (and could I use my block plane, or does it need a power planer?) I know that you can shave 5mm off most doors all round... ;)

Practical advice: if you are trying to make something to fit cut, a "rod" of the right size is very handy, e.g. if the TV is 850mm wide x 650mm high, cut a piece of something like slate lath at 850mm and put a big black line across at 650mm from one end. Measured (and checked) this will cut out any possible arithmetic or metrological errors
Last edited:
As said, you should have left a fair gap all around for ventilation etc. if it was me, I'd rip it out and start again. You've made the classic mistake of measuring once, cutting twice....
Get a multitool (you could do it with other tools, but a multitool will eat this job - it'll also allow you to trim back any timber framing.). Cut back the face plasterboard to make a bigger aperture, scrat back the skim enough to fit new beading. Reline the sides and re-skim. It's a PITA but there isn't really a quicker fix for a neat job. You do need a little bit of an air gap too.

And, hey - we've all been there. Lesson learned!
Buy a bigger TV to cover the hole. As mentioned, overheating could be a problem with a snug fit.
Get a multitool (you could do it with other tools, but a multitool will eat this job - it'll also allow you to trim back any timber framing.).

TV Wall Before Plastering.jpg

It's going to make a helluva mess whatever you do with it. One of the problems is that if the joints in the PB haven't been scrimmed (and even if they have), using a multitool for extended periods may result in cracking of the joints.

I'm also unsure if the frame is just a face frame, or if there is extra frame at the rear to carry the plasterboard which lines the reveal sides. If there is, then I think it will be less hassle to strip off all the beads, remove the fascia boards, remove the reveals, modify the frame, replace the reveal boards then finally reclad and rebead the front. It's probably a couple of hours work, no more, to get to the point where you can replaster (you've had a practice run already, so it's bound to be faster 2nd time round...).

Whilst in there it wouldn't be a bad idea to add some ventilation slots or make provision for some grilles

OP, if you do stuff like this in future, try to avoid putting multiple small pieces around the opening - instead go for a single piece with a large cut-out if you can. Doing so will give you a single surface which not only plasters better, but having no joints there is no liklihood that a joint will crack as the result of thermal expansion.
Last edited:
Either get another TV or rip it out and start again.

You will not be happy with just fettling it to squeeze in.
To ensure reliable operation and to protect it from overheating, these slots and openings must never be blocked or covered. As a general guideline, the rear of the TV should be 2 to 6 inches away from the wall and the sides of the TV should have about 4 inches of ventilation space.

The above is from the Sony website. I have fitted OLED TVs that only have about 20mm around them (the gap was only there so that I could get my fingers in to pull it flush to the front face), but they had very generous airflow at the back.
So where are all the supplies required for this TV? Power, aerial, HDMI, CAT5, satellite dish feed, etc. or is it just decoration and not being switched on?

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Sponsored Links