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UPVC Style Door Catching/Problem

Discussion in 'Windows and Doors' started by ScottishGasMan, 15 Nov 2014.

  1. ScottishGasMan

    ScottishGasMan

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    Hey all

    Looking at a double door, which to open requires someone to nearly kick the thing open, and has alot of trouble closing.

    Had a look today and the latches that come down when you lift the handle up dont appear to be retracting fully causing the bother.

    top and bottom one stay out the same amount, but the lock part at the handle pulls all the way back in ok.

    Is there an adjustment I can make to fix this?


    Handle lifted to locking position


    Handel lowered to open:
     
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  3. crank39

    crank39

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  4. Ellog

    Ellog

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    Sharp intake of breath. Me thinks we should discuss further.
    This type of door(double glazed?) with full glass units is prone to dropping if the glass unit is not properly ' toe and heeled', that is securely packed within the rebate, thereby holding the door square.
    These doors look to be hardwood and not plastic, is this right and if so are they hung on butt hinges which are not adjustable?
    Does the door catch all-round or only in a particular place? I ask this because there appears to be damage shown in the 4th picture at the bottom of the stile indicating that it may have dropped and is catching on a receiver on the sill. Hope to hear more from you.
     
  5. ronniecabers

    ronniecabers

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    Think Crank has hit the mark here regarding the retraction of the lock, Locking hooks not retracting completely would imply something wrong with the internals of the lock.....you may be lucky , it may be of the type that has lock extensions , that fit into a serrated type piece of the lock ( sorry not very well explained )....these are known to slip and cause locks not retract fully.

    Ellog..you are right about toe and heeling of course for the sticking door, could also purely be the hinges need adjusting if it is PVc
     
  6. crank39

    crank39

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    The lock I linked to looks identical to the one in the photos, even to the add on shoot bolt extensions top and bottom. Tis also a timber door, if you zoom in on each photo you can make the grain out especially on the rebate strip, also note there isn't much timber left on each side of the 16mm lock strip which suggests its a 44mm door not a modern 70mm pvc, it would also match the timber window in the background :D

    As for toe and heeling then in principle I would agree but in theory I would imagine it being pretty difficult to sprag that door up given the strength of the M&T joints, bet it wouldn't move much, you'd probably get what you needed to on the hinges
     
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  8. ronniecabers

    ronniecabers

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    Didn't look closely at the pics....you are of course right Crank, it does look like wood , and toe and heeling it would indeed be more tricky...

    As for the lock, Again apologies , I didn't follow your link, as normally you are spot on with diagnoses and products from what I have read on here :D

    That lock does indeed have the serrated piece that I mentioned, it could just have slipped....hopefully...
     
  9. crank39

    crank39

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    Trouble is most gearboxes connect to the main strap with a basic peg and hole so there isn't anything that could slip a tooth, looking at the pics it appears the Winkhaus mech has a pressed on centre case so can't be split either from the lock strip to take a look, some systems do have serrated teeth (male/female) and could possibly jump a tooth which would certainly cause the issue the OP has but as I've said its effectively a sealed unit so not adjustable
     
  10. Ellog

    Ellog

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    I would still like to hear from the original 'postie'. I would further suggest the following prior to rushing out and parting with hard earned 'sponds'.
    Hold down the handle in the open position and see if there is any free play to push the shoots home and if there is a sill receiver of the type that stands proud of the sill then temp remove this to see if that is obstructing the door, there was a reference to having to 'kick' the door. I think we should progress with this process of elimination in order to assist in arriving at a more reasoned consensus rather than lash out on the first thing that springs to mind, even if it proves to be right in the end. Just a suggestion of course.
     
  11. crank39

    crank39

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    I would imagine with the handle held down the hooks would plop back if pressed, I would also imagine you could pull them back out with long nosed pliers even with the handle depressed so that points to some play in the gearbox, either wear or a failure of some sort
     
  12. ronniecabers

    ronniecabers

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    I think taking the lock out to see of any obvious faults that may be repaired is very prudent, and this would be my first port of call
     
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