*URGENT* Leak from Rad Elbow

[rvp]

Hi Fellas,

Hoping someone can help us out here quick as it's leaking pretty bad and I am supposed to be going out later!

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• rvp
• 9 Jan 2015
• 1

Cut to the chase. Elbow is leaking from where the copper pipe enters, I can't tighten it at all - all it does is spin around, there is also a slight side to side 'wobble' when I touch it which makes the water come out faster.

Any ideas? or is this a Plumbers job??

p.s I turned the water off, Mains/hot water tank and opened all taps etc but it's still gushing water out the pipe!

 

[Burnerman]

Its had a hard paper round, that one.....the pipe going into the valve is well distorted.
I'd renew the elbow from the horizontal pipe run, due to the pipe being full of water, and you can help the plumber by getting rid of that paint so he could maybe use a compression fitting.
The water will stop when your header tank in the loft is empty, if its a traditional system.....of course the header tank will keep filling until the ball valve is tied up.
John

 

[rvp]

Its had a hard paper round, that one.....the pipe going into the valve is well distorted.
I'd renew the elbow from the horizontal pipe run, due to the pipe being full of water, and you can help the plumber by getting rid of that paint so he could maybe use a compression fitting.
The water will stop when your header tank in the loft is empty, if its a traditional system.....of course the header tank will keep filling until the ball valve is tied up.
John

Cheers John, it is well past it's sell by date to be fair but until funds allow it will have to stay like that.

I'll pop down to the local diy shop and get myself a 10mm Compression Elbow.

I am hoping to sort it myself as it doesn't now seem a massive task, I'll take a trip to the loft also to sort the tank out.

Thanks again.

 

[Burnerman]

Personally I'd still go back into the horizontal run, and fix a compression straight then a short length of 10mm and then the elbow....solder type if you want.
Of course when you cut the pipe even more water will flow (unless its a sealed system).
The valve looks a bit hard up too, unfortunately.
Be lucky!
John

 

[rvp]

Personally I'd still go back into the horizontal run, and fix a compression straight then a short length of 10mm and then the elbow....solder type if you want.
Of course when you cut the pipe even more water will flow (unless its a sealed system).
The valve looks a bit hard up too, unfortunately.
Be lucky!
John

Thanks again john.

I shall be tackling this in the morning now I have stopped the leak fully.

I'll be changing the valve too and following your method.

Any ideas which is the header tank and how to empty it I have two in the loft - one big one and a small one!

 

[Burnerman]

The small tank is the flow and expansion tank for the heating, the large one is for the domestic hot water and that feeds the copper cylinder.
The smart move is to plug the small tank outlet, if you can.....this also prevents the crap that's sure to be in the tank entering the system.
John

 

[rvp]

The small tank is the flow and expansion tank for the heating, the large one is for the domestic hot water and that feeds the copper cylinder.
The smart move is to plug the small tank outlet, if you can.....this also prevents the crap that's sure to be in the tank entering the system.
John

Lovely stuff Pal.

I'll have a go at that tomorrow although I've tied the ball cock up in the small tank and that does seem to have stopped any more water coming out when I 'mess' with the elbow joint.

 

[Burnerman]

Get some Nitromors paint stripper on the pipes mate - compression fittings need a smooth surface for the olive to seal. You can always fit a stop end after the compression fitting just to give yourself some breathing time while you sort the rad valve.
John

 

[rvp]

Bump.

Problem

I bought a new valve however I can't remove the Rad tail to fit it

Here's me thinking it would be straightforward!

Any ideas?

 

[Burnerman]

The rad tail will either have external flats on it for a spanner, or an internal hexagon, in which case a large allen key is needed.
Once I came across a tail that had an internal square, but that was ages ago.
John

 

[rvp]

Hi John,

Thanks again, it has this however my allen keys are puny.

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• rvp
• 10 Jan 2015
• 1

 

[Burnerman]

Down to B&Q, Wickes or whatever....the key is available there as a specific tool.
I think its 1/2" AF but not absolutely sure. Get some ptfe tape and sealant at the same time!
John

 

[rvp]

Down to B&Q, Wickes or whatever....the key is available there as a specific tool.
I think its 1/2" AF but not absolutely sure. Get some ptfe tape and sealant at the same time!
John

Cheers John, got some ptfe tape knocking about and I think it's 1/2" AF as that is what's on my new Valve packaging.

I am sure I'll struggle to get it off! looks like it's been on there for a hundred years

 

[rvp]

I have been some digging on the forum in the meantime and came across this.

Use 2 pairs of grips to tighten the valve on to the tail - really tight - then turn the nut that is on the tail. It will unscrew.

No idea if that will work but will give it a shot!

 

[Newboy]

This should do the trick

http://www.screwfix.com/p/radiator-spanner/11467


This will do the trick
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-uni-spanner/95088