Vent Axia Extractor Fan not working - "twitching"

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The cost of trying to repair a small fan can often be greater than the cost and time of simply replacing it.
These days if any of mine go wonky I simply replace them.

Although, attempting a DIY repair could be a well worthwhile learning experience, so I never ever say never. I often do just buy a replacement, then tackle the faulty item, to find out what went wrong with it, repair it, then keep it as a spare.
 
The basic problem with those is that only indicate the presence of a live voltage.
As you probably know, for something to work if needs a live and a neutral. A magic wand won’t show you if the neutral is, or isn’t there. And half of circuit faults are due to the absence of the neutral. So you’ll need a proper tester.

If you are aware of the limitations and know how to make good use of a voltstick, then yes you can detect the lack of a neutral.
 
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So I've ordered a pack of 5 Panasonic capacitors for £2.29 from eBay and will see if that is indeed the issue and if not replace the entire fan.

Regarding the multimeter -v- volt meter, for DIY purposes I believe the volt meter to be more suitable - a multimeter has more features and therefore more prone to misuse for non-enthusiasists/non-professionals.

What I've done when installing Tado and needed to swap the wired thermostat, I just cut the power to the entire house by putting down all the switches. I still tested before and after and was satisfied I was working safely.

No because if there is a small fault elsewhere on the circuit you have an induced voltage in the neutral. There is also the slim chance that the switch is wired through the neutral instead of the live. For the sake of a couple of quid it could save your life. NEVER take shortcuts or skimp on safety.

Would switching off electricity on all circuits avoid this problem entirely? i.e. there is no electricity going past the front door effectively? (I would still use the volt meter to double check before touching any cables)
 
Can you elaborate on how to do this please?

OK, a voltstick is always the first test instrument I pick out, they are a none contact tester, so safer than using a meter and probes. If there is a break in the neutral, with the item switched the stick will light up near both live and neutral. You can run the tester tip along a live flex, shielded by your finger tips and will be able to pick up the live for around 1/3 of the diameter of the flex, or 1/2 if a two core. Lighting up for 2/3 suggest a neutral or possibly an earth break, lighting around the entire circumference on a two core suggests a neutral break. No light at all suggests the plug fuse has blown, you can check the socket is live, by holding the tip close to the plug. A series of no contact tests, so no risks involved.

You can check the voltstick is working, by rubbing it along your hairy arm.

That where I start, takes just a second and then you move to better, more involved methods.

Your final test, before working on anything with lots of current behind it, is a modern equivalent of a test lamp, as issued to all those working for the electricity boards. I have one, but maybe OTT for DIY.
 
OK, a voltstick is always the first test instrument I pick out, they are a none contact tester, so safer than using a meter and probes. If there is a break in the neutral, with the item switched the stick will light up near both live and neutral. You can run the tester tip along a live flex, shielded by your finger tips and will be able to pick up the live for around 1/3 of the diameter of the flex, or 1/2 if a two core. Lighting up for 2/3 suggest a neutral or possibly an earth break, lighting around the entire circumference on a two core suggests a neutral break. No light at all suggests the plug fuse has blown, you can check the socket is live, by holding the tip close to the plug. A series of no contact tests, so no risks involved.

You can check the voltstick is working, by rubbing it along your hairy arm.

That where I start, takes just a second and then you move to better, more involved methods.
I use them and LED/neon screwdrivers in much the same way although I haven't owned a voltstick for a number of years. but I've been on sites where they inspect tool kits and quaranteen such items.
 
I use them and LED/neon screwdrivers in much the same way although I haven't owned a voltstick for a number of years. but I've been on sites where they inspect tool kits and quaranteen such items.

Simply because too many people rely too heavily on the voltsticks - they need to be used as a first step, rather than a final safety step. Neon screwdrivers are much less safe than voltsticks..
 
Would switching off electricity on all circuits avoid this problem entirely?
Yes, but only if those switches actually work.
Switches can and do fail, both open and closed. Or the most evil, where the double pole main switch opens the neutral but the line is welded closed internally. That leaves everything live, but nothing works.

Testing for voltage every single time with a suitable device which is proved working before and after use is the only safe option.
 
From what I have been sing said, LAP = crap.
The Schneider should be good - as you say a reputable company (I hope). :)
 

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