Veritas Alarm wont set

[marvinwright]

Hi,

I'm going to have a go at trying to fix my sister in laws alarm, it hasn't been working for a couple of years now.
There are a number of threads I've been reading through in order to try and locate the issue but I haven't exactly found one with exactly the same issue.
Picture of the keypad below.

Zone 1 is lit red, if I understand correctly this just mean that zone 1 is open and of course the alarm cannot be set until zone 1 is closed?
Tamper light is off so I assume I don't need to worry about that for the moment.

I don't know what zone 1 is yet until I get there.
Not sure if the engineers code is default (1234), what is the best way to check if the engineers code actually works?
If this doesn't work, I assume that each time I pull off the keypad or open the control panel I can enter the user code to silence it?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks,

Marvin

 

[sparkymarka]

Yes , as long as it's not programmed for engineer reset on tamper ...

 

[SandyLyon]

Zone 1 is often programmed as the entry / exit zone, this is often a magnetic contact on the entry / exit door.
It has been known for the reed switch to stick open or closed, if this is zone one try gently tapping the part that is connected to the door frame, also make sure the magnet is still connected to the door (I’ve seen doors replaced and the magnet not swapped over)

 

[Europlex]

and don't forget, if giving it a tap unsticks the contact, REPLACE IT.

It will only stick again.

 

[marvinwright]

Thanks for the advice guys, I had a suspicion of the entry/exit sensor. Hopefully I'll get a chance to look this coming weekend.

 

[marvinwright]

ok, so not quite as straight forward as I was hoping. Firstly pressed the user code/reset and the zone1 light went out but tamper went on.
Some work is being done on the house and the builders have just ripped off one of the PIR's which is nice and they seem to have misplaced it as we cannot find it.
So firstly I need to remove the zone where the builders have just ripped off the PIR, looks like the engineers code is not the default.
I assume this can be done by opening up the control panel and linking the 2 terminals on the affected zone?

Also something I noticed that none of the PIR's lights went on when there was movement in any of the rooms, is that normal in a tamper situation?

 

[Handymanjo]

Possible fuse blown when pair removed
Put wire link in zone 2
You my also need to isolate tamper for pir
Just to prove alarm ok put wire link in tamper zone,if clear then you can sort pir issue

 

[SandyLyon]

If they have “ripped”it out and misplaced it I’m assuming that you have at least 6cores exposed.
2 will be 12v + and -, 2 will be zone (alarm) and 2 will be the tamper circuit. There’s every chance that the 12v wires have shorted and blown the “AUX” fuse hence no lights coming on on the other PIR.
You can either isolate them at the panel, or link the tamper circuit together and the same with the zone circuit at the PIR end and isolate the 12v supply in a connector block.
Then check the AUX fuse in the panel.

 

[marvinwright]

Yeah, they left all the 6 cores dangling and exposed, since I don't know the colour coding used for the tamper connections I'll have to do it at the panel. Sounds like the the fuse has blown then, I'll open panel first to check. At the same time I'll link out the affected zone where they pulled the PIR off, this is zone 5. I guess it would be an idea to disconnect all wires for this zone since the are just dangling, I don't want to risk further blown fuses.

 

[Willingtonshire]

You can remove the wires for a zone but I recommend putting in a jumper cable on the zone to allow the system to think the zone is secure. I have had a number of issues with my older Veritas alarm so we recently upgraded the whole system with a newer Veritas alarm. Easy enough job of it comes to that.

 

[marvinwright]

Just an update, was able to have a quick look again today.
Firstly, here is a picture of inside the control panel.

So looking at zone 5 which is the PIR the builders ripped off, my sister in law wants a new one put in so instead of removing it I put all the cables on the PIR end into terminal block but connected the green and yellow together to stop the tamper, looking at the control panel for Z5 I think I did that right?

I also replaced the F3 fuse which then made all detectors work again.

So now I think we are back to where we were before the builders ripped off the PIR.
The keypad tamper is still on so these are the following things I did.

Walk Test - zone 4 was on constantly whether there was movement or not, zones 1,2 and 3 worked as expected.
Test Sounders/Strobe - Internal sounder and bell worked, however strobe did nothing, I assume strobe should make the bell box flash?

According to the walk test it looks like the zone 4 PIR has a problem, a quick visual look shows the light on PIR flash when someone enters the room, the PIR case seems intact. Looking at the control panel Z4, it seems to be wired up differently which is strange since all zones were installed at the same time. The only time the company was back was to change the battery in 2013.

Firstly, I want to check, if the strobe is not working can this cause an issue for the alarm to function?

Regarding zone 4 PIR, do you agree the wiring looks odd? I guess the next step here would be to open up that PIR and see how that is wired up?

Appreciate the advice so far!

Marvin

 

[turanafon]

Panel battery may need replacing soon alos if you see the date on it .

 

[Handymanjo]

Why have you got 2wires per terminal on zone 4 ? Looks like wire doubled up or has some tried to connect 2 pirs on one zone ?
First open pir on zone 4 to check wiring,post photo if require help

 

[marvinwright]

Panel battery may need replacing soon alos if you see the date on it .

Yeah once I get it all working I will replace the battery.

Why have you got 2wires per terminal on zone 4 ? Looks like wire doubled up or has some tried to connect 2 pirs on one zone ?
First open pir on zone 4 to check wiring,post photo if require help

No idea about that wiring, I guess it makes sense if they've doubled up the wires but I just find it strange that it's wired up differently.
If Z4 is using red,green doubled up and yellow,brown doubled up then the PIR would be using a different colour for the power (which is usually red for positive?), I'd expect to see a different colour going into Aux + wouldn't I?

As you say I need to open up the PIR next and then see how that's wired which should help.

Thanks again!

 

[SandyLyon]

Yeah once I get it all working I will replace the battery.

I would replace the battery first, they can cause numerous problems. Then concentrate on getting it working.