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Wall Plate Resin Anchors Query

Discussion in 'Building' started by RVS6, 22 May 2018.

  1. RVS6

    RVS6

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    Hi
    I have fitted a timber wall plate to side of house for lean too roof. Roof is all on and I have just started insulation. I checked Rawlbolts (done with the resin) and the nuts were not that tight (they were when first fitted about 3 months back). I have tightened them a bit with a spanner, but did not want to over tighten the. The 25mm diameter round washers that came with the bolts have sunk into the face of the timber a little and they are reasonably tight. Photo attached Bolt.jpg Just worried they will loosen up again and they will be hidden in an inaccessible ceiling void.

    So I was wondering:

    a) How tight do they really need to be?
    b) Would square washers be better, if so what sort of size?
    c) Would the spiked timber connectors put on before the washer and bolt make a difference?

    Advice would be much appreciated. I don't really want to create any more work for myself, but I do like to do things properly.

    Thanks
     
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  3. tony1851

    tony1851

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    a) tight but not so tight as to strip the threads; they have slackened because the timber has shrunk slightly as it dries out.
    b) round washers perfectly OK.
    c) what would toothed washers bite into? can't see them being any use in this situation.
     
  4. RVS6

    RVS6

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    Thanks Tony.
    Is a "strong hand tight" good enough i.e. I wasn't going to swing on the wrench or break my wrist. I am also conscious that some of the Rawlbolts have the sleeves in the holes due to frogged bricks and I recall reading that they should not be overtightened.

    On the toothed washers I was thinkin they would go over the bolt and squash into the timber before the nut goes on and is tightened against the washer
     
  5. tony1851

    tony1851

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    Yes, no need to over-tighten - it won't be going anywhere.

    There are two types of toothed washers - ones with teeth on both sides and others with teeth only on one side.
    Both types are intended for timber-to-timber connections only, and you won't gain any advantage in using them in this situation, unless you are into pain for when your hand slips off the wrench.
     
  6. noseall

    noseall

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    Resin anchors - lol.
    Regularly specified by zealous architects (like code 6 lead, 25mm floor boards, twin turbo solar polar blocks etc) and are often not needed.
     
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  7. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Finger tight will do, where will the plate be going with a washer and nut blocking it?
     
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