Washing Machine/Dishwasher - Operating switch

[utterlydiy]

Having had a new kitchen fitted some years ago by a high street DIY center.

The kitchen and dining room were knocked into one room with new units and appliances etc.

Recently had the Dishwasher service engineer called in for a problem.

The dishwasher and washing machine are side by side and both integrated units.

He noted that there was no Switch/Neon Switch to kill the power to these machines if my wife ever needed to turn off the supply, although this can be done via the trips in the main board. But she is uneasy about entering here.

The units are plugged into the original twin socket which was in the dining room, but behind the machine built into the kitchen units.

So to fit a kill switch above the machines in the wall above the work top. I assume this socket being on the sockets ring main having two cables.

How can I fit such a Switch.

 

[sparkwright]

Can you not just fit the socket (or two single sockets) in cupboards next to the appliances?

 

[utterlydiy]

Thanks

Cannot get any access behind the appliances/cupboards having large pull out storage drawers. Access to the rear of this part of the cupboard means emptying the storage drawers and lift out.

 

[EFLImpudence]

He noted that there was no Switch/Neon Switch to kill the power to these machines if my wife ever needed to turn off the supply,

It is a personal preference. There is nothing which states there must be one.

So to fit a kill switch above the machines in the wall above the work top. I assume this socket being on the sockets ring main having two cables.

If they are, they will.

How can I fit such a Switch.

The cables will need replacing involving chasing the wall and fitting the switches.

 

[utterlydiy]

The cables will need replacing involving chasing the wall and fitting the switches.

Plaster board/stud and brick outer.

Could a 45amp double pole switch be mounted above the hardtop/wall and the ring-main connected as if a socket. From the 45amp switch to the double socket with approx one metre of 4mm T&E to connect the two.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You could if you wanted if the cables run in the right place, they (or one of them) may be at the socket level.

 

[ericmark]

You could fit a socket with remote operation, I fitted one to supply alarms, I can only talk about the one I fitted, it was a double socket, it had two press buttons on the socket, and I could program in up to three remote controls, each remote could operate up to 4 outlets. Sockets rated at 13A.

Down side, with a power cut default is off, so not suitable for fridge or freezer, and the back box needs to be deep, to use the timer function or operate with a smart phone, it also needed a hub, and the hub needed connecting to internet.

The one I had was MiHome Energenie, it only had three built in timers, after that you needed to use IFTTT system. There are other makes, some I am told don't need a hub to use with smart phone, some have more timers included, there may be other features.

I never used my wall sockets to maximum wattage, I did however use the plug in device which does the same job, and this one will not allow over 3 kW it will auto switch off. I have some cheap Lidi plug in units, these came as pack of 4 two simple switches, and two dimmer units, the simple switches are rated 13A, so again that is a option.

Personally I would not worry, today washing machines auto switch off with unbalanced load, the old problem of loose weights causing the washing machine to walk around the kitchen destroying anything in it's path are gone, so I personally would only fit remote operated sockets if I needed to remotely switch on/off, it is just something else to go wrong, I don't think you could pre-program our washing machine to switch on, I think no power means reprogram.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Plaster board/stud and brick outer.

Could a 45amp double pole switch be mounted above the hardtop/wall and the ring-main connected as if a socket. From the 45amp switch to the double socket with approx one metre of 4mm T&E to connect the two.

Why on earth do you think you'd need a 45amp switch?
*Hint* the appliances plugs will have fuses of no more than 13amp in them.

 

[JohnW2]

Why on earth do you think you'd need a 45amp switch?

Could it perhaps be a case of believing that a switch connected to a (probably 32A) ring final must be rated ≥32A ? It would not be the first time we have encountered that.

Kind Regards, John

 

[jj4091]

Just plug one of these into the original socket then your appliances to the switched extension if all you need to achieve is localised switching capabilities https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p6...MIi8CRwOzj2wIV7pztCh1Qagv3EAQYBCABEgJTzfD_BwE

 

[utterlydiy]

Why on earth do you think you'd need a 45amp switch?
*Hint* the appliances plugs will have fuses of no more than 13amp in them.

If the two appliances are used at the same time using max current when heating water etc.


Ok, what rating switch and cable should I use for switching as described above. ?

thanks

 

[Tigercubrider]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-Remote-Control-Sockets-Pack/dp/B004A7XGH8

the motors MIGHT cause an issue but thew sockets are handy.
they do take up space

 

[John D v2.0]

If it's purely the cu putting your wife off, consider fitting an isolator for the ring circuit beside the cu, and labeling it suitabley. Might be less hassle and if the envisaged situation is a burning dishwasher, having remote isolation makes more sense.

 

[JohnW2]

If it's purely the cu putting your wife off, consider fitting an isolator for the ring circuit beside the cu, and labeling it suitabley.

As you imply, it's not clear as to what is the concern of the OP's wife, but it would seem surprising if she were happy to operate an isolator adjacent to the CU, but not the breaker in the CU itself. It almost sounds as if the CU is is a 'problem' place ...

He noted that there was no Switch/Neon Switch to kill the power to these machines if my wife ever needed to turn off the supply, although this can be done via the trips in the main board. But she is uneasy about entering here.

If it were done as you suggest, it would, of course, be necessary to isolate both legs of the ring circuit - which, although not a problem, would be a somewhat unusual situation.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

Why on earth do you think you'd need a 45amp switch?
*Hint* the appliances plugs will have fuses of no more than 13amp in them.

Could it perhaps be a case of believing that a switch connected to a (probably 32A) ring final must be rated ≥32A ? It would not be the first time we have encountered that.

I did not query the OP's suggestion re: the 45A switch because both items are plugged into a double socket so, strictly speaking, a 20A switch would be inadequate.

He was correct. He may find a 32A switch but are they any different?