Washing Machine/Dishwasher - Operating switch

[winston1]

Just plug one of these into the original socket then your appliances to the switched extension if all you need to achieve is localised switching capabilities https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p6...MIi8CRwOzj2wIV7pztCh1Qagv3EAQYBCABEgJTzfD_BwE

DON'T DO THAT. For a start it is only rated at 13 amps total.

Such 4 way splitters are OK for low loads such hi-fi etc but should never be used on things like dish washers and washing machines.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Let's have an unscientific, statistically insignificant poll, and ask how many people have ever needed, for any reason, to cut off the supply to a socket where an appliance is plugged in.

I'll start the ball rolling.

Never.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Never
That's 2 - 0

 

[JohnW2]

Never ... That's 2 - 0

I suppose one might argue that it might not have necessarily been 'needed' - but I certainly cut off the supply to a (not really accessible) socket when smoke stared pouring out of my Hotpoint dryer.

Does that make it 2-1?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Yes.

 

[reds42]

I suppose one might argue that it might not have necessarily been 'needed' - but I certainly cut off the supply to a (not really accessible) socket when smoke stared pouring out of my Hotpoint dryer.

Does that make it 2-1?

Kind Regards, John

I also had a dryer that started smoking. It was plugged into a socket at the back of a cupboard next to it. As I was disconnecting the plug with my head in the cupboard next to a possibly burning machine the thought did cross my mind that I'd much rather have more easily accessible means to isolate it like a switch above the worktop! When the kitchens replaced I think an easy access isolation switch will be on my to do list...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Deuce.

 

[JohnW2]

I also had a dryer that started smoking. It was plugged into a socket at the back of a cupboard next to it. As I was disconnecting the plug with my head in the cupboard next to a possibly burning machine the thought did cross my mind that I'd much rather have more easily accessible means to isolate it like a switch above the worktop! When the kitchens replaced I think an easy access isolation switch will be on my to do list...

Maybe. One obviously needs to have a means of killing the electricity supply to things 'in an emergency'. However, when my dryer started smoking, I achieved that by flicking the MCB in the CU (which was only a few feet away) - so didn't need a separate 'emergency switch' (technically not an 'isolator') to achieve what was required.

There is also an argument that, if one does have an emergency switch, it probably makes sense not to site it too close to the appliance it controls - since one wouldn't want to be reaching over an appliance to get at an 'above worktop' switch above it if there were flames coming out of it!

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

emergency switch preferably next to the door, so you can hit it as you run away (or as you walk in and discover your kitchen afire)

 

[securespark]

I also had a dryer that started smoking.

Did you have serious chat with it about the consequences?
Tch, the appliances of today...

 

[securespark]

As some you have read, my food processor caught fire the other day.

It was not a built-in or built-under appliance, but I was very pleased to be able to isolate it sharpish!!

 

[reds42]

My CU is the other side of the house and not easy to reach quickly in an emergency, thats why I went for the plug.

My plan is to fit a local isolator to the side of appliances for the very reason of avoiding having to reach over anything that actualy caught fire.

I've also remembered my parents had a dishwasher which started smoking from the control panel once (bad pcb solder joint to the relay running heating element). That was easy to isolate as it was plugged into a socket above and to the side of it in easy reach.

 

[John D v2.0]

I have a scream activated isolator, basically i just need to scream as i run out and it cuts the power, gas, and activates the sprinkler and emergency lighting.
A bit embarrassing when it's just a spider

 

[securespark]

 

[EFLImpudence]

3 - 2. (I think)

It might be worth doing if starting from scratch but we can't tell what is involved for the OP.
I wouldn't bother.