What cable should I use for this product please

Joined
25 Jan 2003
Messages
162
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
What is the lightest rating of cable I can use to make up an extension plug and socket to provide current for the following ONLY please and will it require an earth wire?:-

http://www.calamander.co.uk/batteryconditioners/ctek3600.htm

Also will it be safe to use this extension outdoors provided the socket will be in the boot of the car and its plug will be inside the house, and only the cable will be exposed to the elements
 
I'd assume everything needed would be supplied and manufactures Instruction to be followed.
If you current installation within your house has RCD protection outside use will be less dangerous, if not get an RCD adaptor socket
 
Five amp cable will be more than adequate current wise and yes do include the earth wire to the socket BUT

the socket will be in the boot of the car and its plug will be inside the house, and only the cable will be exposed to the elements

which means the cable needs to be physically tough enough to withstand possibly being trapped and damaged by the boot lid.

Also take care that the leads from battery cannot get damaged or shorted as there appears to be no fuse in the battery leads.

If I was going to use one of those ( and I won't be ) then I would fit an in-line fuse in the leads to the battery just behind the croc clips.
 
PrenticeBoyofDerry
I'm sorry if I haven't made myself clear :oops:

My intention is to charge the car battery in the car, by running an extension cable from inside the house (plugged into an RCD adaptor)
having the socket of the extension inside the boot of the car and plugging the battery charger into this where it will be protected from the elements.

I will be making an extension up myself, and I have a reel of cable I can use but I am not sure it it is suitable, as it might just be intended for lighting circuits!

Hence the above post :lol:
 
bernardgreen

The leads from the battey charger to the battery itself will be fed from inside the bulkhead of the car and attached to the battery itself by eyelets to the battery clamp bolts and a quick release plug and lead supplied by the manufacturer of the battery charger, as an alternative to crocodile clips, which might be apt to fall off!

You seem to think I shouldn't be doing this. If this is the case please tell me why, as I would rather be told BLUNTLY IF NECESSARY!

I would be using a plug-in RCD adaptor as I have said
 
In theory you could make an extension lead with 0.5mm flex, provided it had a 3A fuse.
However this creates the very likely situation of someone replacing the fuse with a higher rating after they have borrowed it for some other purpose.
It will need to have an earth connection, unless you are going to fit a 2 pin socket on the end, and the corresponding 2 pin plug on the appliance.

I personally would not make up any extension lead with less than 1.5mm flex.

Also consider that you can buy a 10m long extension lead for less than ten quid - already assembled and tested.
Is it really worth making one?
 
Why are you putting so much effort into charging your car battery????

Get your alternator fixed!
 
it could be a car that doesnt get used over the winter, ie a classic, the CTEK chargers are frequently used as battery conditioners to keep the battery in good condition in the winter layup.

they are a damn good charger for this purpose.

I would just go and buy a reel, there are some 5A extension reels about that would keep the cable small to get into the boot.
 
if it's not used over the winter then you remove the battery and store it in the house and charge it there..
 
as I live in a first floor flat and the other option is a lead out of a window in the midst of winter and leaving the charger outside, then yes..
 
Has OP considered extending the 12v leads and keeping the charger inside? As long as an inline fuse is mounted as close as possible to the battery, and the charger is only trickle charging (so not a lot of current), it should be relatively easy to do. It also takes away the 230v from anywhere where it's likely to cause harm, and will only need 2 core cable.
 
The leads from the battey charger to the battery itself will be fed from inside the bulkhead of the car and attached to the battery itself by eyelets to the battery clamp bolts

This means you will have an un-fused lead from the "live" side of the battery going through the car. If for any reason the insulation is damaged and a short circuit to body work happens that lead becomes a serious fire risk. So the recommendation to fit an in-line fuse at the battery end of the lead.

You seem to think I shouldn't be doing this. If this is the case please tell me why, as I would rather be told BLUNTLY IF NECESSARY!

I have fitted similar arrangements to vehicles so I have no objection to the idea. All I am concerned about is the safety. I would have the charger external the to car and take 12 volt into the care simply to avoid mains inside the car.

I have been in a Mini van when an un-fused lead to a radio shorted to chassis and set fire to the back of the seat ( battery was behind the driver's seat ) and it spread to the roof lining before being extinguished.
 
Have I missed something or is it too early, £20 will buy you 25m rcd protectd extension reel a bit more will buy you a longer one. No need to make one up. After you've bought cable plug top and rcd adaptor and made it up must be worth purchasing one?
 
What happens if you forget to unplug? My son did this and now has removed the retaining lug on the lid of the 16A socket so if he does it again the plug will just pull out. And unlike driving a car he stands at back right next to cable and still forgot to unplug.

I have seen fire trucks with both charger and water heater so even if not used for months they can still spring into action and because of water heater they had mains supply. But to float charge a battery there is no need to have the mains supply the 13.8vdc supply is good enough. To maintain a battery even the 400AH used on my sons boat only needs about 0.5A and even when old 1A is plenty.

But 14.7v is what is considered as bulk charge voltage and not float so to reduce the voltage is likely a good thing.

The voltage to a lead acid battery is normally considered as:-
13.8v - Float the battery can be charged 24/7 at this voltage.
14.2v - Often used by vehicles as compromise between bulk and float voltage.
14.8 - bulk charge voltage.

So a good quality stepped battery charger will on switch on supply max amps (25A in case of one my son uses) until the battery voltage reaches 14.8 volts. At this point the amps will be reduced to hold voltage to 14.8 volts and the amps will be monitored. Once the amps drop to a pre-set level (2.5A in case of one my son uses) or after a pre-set time has elapsed (8h in case of one my son uses) the voltage is further reduced to 13.8v. These are called "Step" chargers. With forklifts where the battery is not used while being charged the voltages per cell may be higher and and final stage switches the charger off.

With cheap car chargers they have two jobs.
1) Re-charge a battery after something has gone wrong i.e. leaving on lights so the higher charge rate the less time it will take but normally the output will not exceed 12A as above that some control is required.
2) To equalise the cells. When batteries and charged and discharged one cells may be more efficient than another so over time some cells become under charged and others overcharged so every round again the whole battery is slightly over charged to bring all cells to same level. Normally around 1.5A for 24 hours with 60AH battery topping up once charged. (Only emergency top up before as electrolyte levels rise as charged)

The charger you show is too small to do 1) and too big to do 2)

The whole idea of equalising charge is not required with modern cars as the alternator does not let the battery discharge except on engine start unlike the old dynamo where the voltage would vary from 12 to 16 volts while the car was driven so the trickle charger has gone in the main.

Best place for charger you have linked to is
p1736672_s.jpg
what you need is something like this link which if you follow link states "Full charge automatic switching to maintenance mode." This is not as good as type my son uses but a lot cheaper a proper charger able to follow the stepped charge like this
224_774.jpg
will start at around £100+ see here but are not really needed for cars.

When CB's were common the power supplies used to power them made really good float chargers but now hard to find CB stuff.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top