Which material and joints for shelving? (2)

[Belboz]

Foxhole is right about MDF and I think you will find that is your cheapest option once you have set out your plans. However, it will be up to you what you use.

Yes - the size is 8x4 in old money!

I would suggest you set out your plan for each sheet remembering that you need to take the kerf (the width of the saw) into account and once you have it roughly drawn, copy it neatly and give it to Alsfords.

That will prevent them from charging you extra by cutting extra boards unnecessarily.

 

[Burnerman]

If you do go down the MDF route, do be aware that the corner joints are always weak, and stressing them will cause the screws to tear out of the side.....easy enough to make them in theory and YouTube but not so simple in real life for a beginner.
John

 

[foxhole]

I prefer glue and a pin gun for small projects, quick and easy. If you screw all should be pilot holed no closer than 80mm for any edge.

 

[LadyHomeLover]

I prefer glue and a pin gun for small projects, quick and easy. If you screw all should be pilot holed no closer than 80mm for any edge.

May I ask please, why bother to nail at all? Could I not use "No More Nails" to hold every piece together?

I take it that by "pin gun" you mean one of these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb515stp-15mm-corded-nailer-stapler-240v/99925

That's not too expensive. I could buy that. However, I am too dumb to work out how it can be used to join two pieces of anything together.

I have started to draw out my planks against a 2440 x 1220 sheet. However, I got distracted by another problem: how to cover an unused doorway that lies behind my proposed wall unit. Ended up discussing that with a friend for ages, and we came up with a couple of ideas. But that took me away from the laying out, which I will get back to perhaps tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions so far.

 

[LadyHomeLover]

Bel boz:

you need to take the kerf (the width of the saw) into account


I don't know how to do that. Do I add or subtract, and if so how much?

Also, thank you for teaching me a new word!

 

[Belboz]

Bel boz:

you need to take the kerf (the width of the saw) into account


I don't know how to do that. Do I add or subtract, and if so how much?

Also, thank you for teaching me a new word!

When setting out, remember that the saw which cuts the sections will remove a few mm each time. So, for example, if you start at the left side of the sheet and had a section 500mm wide, you need to add in the saw cut before the next section because what will be left on the sheet will not be 1220-500 but will be 1220 - 500 plus the saw width. As a result, there will always be a little bit of waste (an offcut) at the ends so take that into account.

If, say, you wanted three sections which were 1220 x 400 then what you would actually end up with as an offcut would not be precisely 20mm (1220-1200) - it would be much smaller than that because the saw width will take out material when it cuts.

Saw blades vary in kerf so may be worth asking Alsfords what size it is first.

I've re-read this and hope it makes sense!!

If not - ask please.

B

 

[LadyHomeLover]

Thank you Belboz for the reply. I totally understand about kerf now.

But I have even more questions! I shall number them to make it easy to reply.

1. Isn't plywood better to use than MDF?

2. What thickness should I use for my units? There are a lot of thicknesses to choose from, form 4mm to 30mm!

3. If I use MDF should I use regular or Medite?

4. MDF has edging strips. Do I need these if I am going to paint the whole unit white?

5. Could I glue half-round pine beading to all the front exposed edges? If I did would glue do or would it have to be pinned also?

6. Should I use plastic tracking for the sliding doors, or pay a carpenter to use a router (?) to create channels in the plywood or MDF?

7. If I opt for plastic track, should this be glued or nailed on?

That is enough questions for now!

I'm terribly excited today because my new cordless drill arrived! I've never had a keyless chuck before, nor a light on my drill, nor a cordless one! It's what every little girl dreams of having one day, and I now have one! Yippee!

Here is the one


http://futuradirect.co.uk/terratek-...s-household-accessory-kit-comes-in-carry-case


LHL

 

[foxhole]

I prefer glue and a pin gun for small projects, quick and easy. If you screw all should be pilot holed no closer than 80mm for any edge.

May I ask please, why bother to nail at all? Could I not use "No More Nails" to hold every piece together?

I take it that by "pin gun" you mean one of these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb515stp-15mm-corded-nailer-stapler-240v/99925

That's not too expensive. I could buy that. However, I am too dumb to work out how it can be used to join two pieces of anything together.

I have started to draw out my planks against a 2440 x 1220 sheet. However, I got distracted by another problem: how to cover an unused doorway that lies behind my proposed wall unit. Ended up discussing that with a friend for ages, and we came up with a couple of ideas. But that took me away from the laying out, which I will get back to perhaps tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions so far.

No that one, only fires 15mm, you material is going to be 18mm so wont penetrate, I use one of these.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tacwise-181el-35-35mm-brad-nailer/98804

 

[Belboz]

But I have even more questions! I shall number them to make it easy to reply.

1. Isn't plywood better to use than MDF?

2. What thickness should I use for my units? There are a lot of thicknesses to choose from, form 4mm to 30mm!

3. If I use MDF should I use regular or Medite?

4. MDF has edging strips. Do I need these if I am going to paint the whole unit white?

5. Could I glue half-round pine beading to all the front exposed edges? If I did would glue do or would it have to be pinned also?

6. Should I use plastic tracking for the sliding doors, or pay a carpenter to use a router (?) to create channels in the plywood or MDF?

7. If I opt for plastic track, should this be glued or nailed on?

That is enough questions for now!

LHL

1. MDF will be cheaper - I guarantee! Either would do for what you need but cut quality may not be as good with plywood (depending on how careful Alsfords are in cutting the sheets) Also, MDF generally accepts a nice paint finish with less preparation than ply. All being said, compare prices as a guide.

2. If using screws or dowels then I would suggest 18mm. If screws/dowels then what you do need to consider is the wall unit as 18mm MDF is heavy. Also, if you use screws then they will need countersunk and then the heads filled and sanded. If using a nailer then thinner ply is okay. I personally wouldn't use nails on MDF but others may take a different view. Possibly consider wall unit in thinner ply (lighter and can be glued and nailed) and base in MDF (dowelled) OR consider thinner ply and nails for everything.

3. Regular will be fine.

4 and 5 Painting MDF edges will be a small issue as the surface is never as smooth as the face of MDF. The same can be said of ply as the layers will show on ply edges. Edging is a good way to go (but remember this will have an impact on any door closing on the unit) Glue and clamp is fine - no need to pin as long as you use good glue and clamp up until dry. You can use whatever edging suits - they do all types.

6 and 7. This will all depend on what type of track you go for (each will have their own fix method) Not sure about your router idea - need to see what your plan is before commenting as there are lots of possible ways to deal with sliding doors.

B

 

[LadyHomeLover]

Thanks for your reply.

The ply is about double the price.

The Medite MDF is cheaper than regular ~ should I therefore use the Medite?

How about wall unit frame in MDF and shelves in thinner ply, making it overall lighter?

Re: beading, doors not an issue as I am having track and sliding doors.

Yesterday I made cardboard models of the tv unit and the shelf unit! Am I taking the planning too seriously?

LHL

 

[foxhole]

The Medite MDF is cheaper than regular ~ should I therefore use the Medite?

I doubt it, standard MDF is about £12 a sheet [18mm]

 

[Belboz]

I guessed the ply would be much more expensive.

If the medite is cheaper then use that (I find it can be more expensive some places)

Your plan about the wall unit sounds fine to me.

You can never plan too much!!

Now you need to think about the construction methods and fixings.

What are you thinking of using?

B

 

[LadyHomeLover]

Now you need to think about the construction methods and fixings.

What are you thinking of using?

B

Well, B.... screws and glue.

 

[Belboz]

Now you need to think about the construction methods and fixings.

What are you thinking of using?

B

Well, B.... screws and glue.

Okay. I thought you were after something a bit more complicated but screws and glue is fine! Nice and straightforward.

 

[LadyHomeLover]

Well I need to keep things simple, then there is fewer things that can go wrong.

The cat laid on and slept on my little cardboard models, and squashed them flat!