That sounds like a more laudably concise version of what I just suggested
Kind Regards, John
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Kind Regards, John
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There were, of course, correct. What they don't seem to have also told you that there is no requirement to comply with the new regulations, which are not 'retrospective'.
Kind Regards, John
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won't be fixed by changing the CU, should be fixed separately
he should have tightened it when he found the issue! Are all the terminals faulty in the same way? if not move the wire.
tighten them or replace the MCB if they can't be tightened onto the bar
electric meter shouldn't have an earth? and it won't be fixed by changing the CU, the earthing should be corrected separately
well, if he's making a markup on them, at 30 quid a circuit he can't go wrong! All RCBOs is indeed the silver standard where dual RCD is bronze, but totally unnecessary. You'd be better spending your money on a maintained (battery backed) emergency light on the stairwell and scrap the RCBOs. Then you'd be covered for power cuts which affect all circuits regardless, really the gold standard.
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Because they want to gouge as much money out of you as possible.
That's why they lied to you about having to replace the CU.
As a layman, it looks like the original install was lacking. Was it done by a shower/plumber installer? In my opinion, there is no need for RCBO's etc. You just need an electrician in for the day to test and sort it out. Rough estimate £25 per hour, you supply the coffee
If it were me, and I were letting it out, I think I would want to see RCD protection on at least the sockets circuits - not that I really think that it makes much difference, but it would be good to be able to indicate that such protection had been provided in the incredibly unlikely event that somone came to harm as a resulty of electricity in the flat. However, as I've said, that could be done by simply shifting the sockets MCBs to 'the other side' of the CU, without the need for any RCBOs.In my opinion, there is no need for RCBO's etc. You just need an electrician in for the day to test and sort it out. Rough estimate £25 per hour, you supply the coffee
As you say, it clearly needs a bit of attention from an electrician, but it certainly does not need a new CU, and the Op would be advised to steer of any 'electrician' who tries to convince him otherwise.
Kind Regards, John
This, on the other hand, DID need upgrading
It's a great pity that those Wylex Standards were/could not be 'uprated'/upgraded and made able to accommodate RCDs, since nothing (that I am aware of) produced subsequently has been even remotely as well engineered!
Kind Regards, John
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Yes the think I liked when I removed ours was the two terminal screws on every point. Although the terminals with the plates are nice, I always feel like they won't grip multiple wires correctly. When I do the pull out test after tightening terminals, often they don't grip properly.
Maybe im heavy handed but i recall the Neutral screws always shearing the head off and a few times seeing boards where others have done the same.
Also seen a few where the back base had burnt up where the fuse prong went in, though this was likely due to poor install, good thing was you could unscrew the section and just fit another ..
Wylex, mk and crabtree were the market leaders, but seemed to have lost the way now
They're top quality there's no doubting that. Someone had made attempts to RCD protect the Bill fuse board (badly) but whole mains cupboard was downright disgraceful.
I think the Schneider Resi9 boards are as close as well engineered as you're likely to get to a Wylex Standard these days. They're based on the old Square D stablok style boards, the MCB pan is entirely shrouded, you can't touch the terminal screws with your fingers - you can with hager, as I've found out quite painfully once or twice. And as a consumer unit, they're not too ugly. Justharder to get your hands on for some reason.
As a layman, it looks like the original install was lacking. Was it done by a shower/plumber installer? In my opinion, there is no need for RCBO's etc. You just need an electrician in for the day to test and sort it out. Rough estimate £25 per hour, you supply the coffee
Are you london based? All electricians are pricing their work at between £40-55/hour
A good few years ago I had a problem with things blowing, especially bulbs, and called in SEEBOARD after measuring 260-280V. They checked my board and sheared of every single neutral screw and a number of the phase screws. Then they went to the sub and adjusted the tap, I watched the voltage change.
I cant agree more.
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